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Routes in South Face

A Nasty Gash T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Song & A Prayer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Crocodile Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Fudge Thursday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joanne of Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jubilant Song T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marion's Melody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabotomy T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Stephen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swinging the Other Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thriller T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Swing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windy Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Wilder, Larry DeAngelo
Page Views: 431 total · 3/month
Shared By: Larry DeAngelo on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Start in a low angle crack halfway between Ain't No Saint and Saint Stephen; climb up to an easy ramp. The second pitch goes up easy rock to a belay beneath a steep section of the ramp. Climb the steep section, then a crack system on the main wall to your left. A short rappel takes you to a good belay position in the gully at the base of a varnished wall. Sustained climbing along the left crack leads to a belay in the broken rock above. Then routefind up and left for two pitches, aiming for the left end of the large overhang capping this section of the face. Go left around the overhang and climb a long friction pitch with somewhat limited protection. Work out the best belay you can when you can get gear. Continue up the waterstreak and move right when reaching the headwall. Belay on a small perch just below the summit ridge. Fourth class leads to the top.


Follow the normal approach to the south face of Windy Peak.


Standard rack



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