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Routes in South Face

A Nasty Gash T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Song & A Prayer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Crocodile Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Fudge Thursday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joanne of Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jubilant Song T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marion's Melody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabotomy T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Stephen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thriller T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Swing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windy Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 650 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,755 total, 21/month
Shared By: Matt Conrad on Mar 2, 2003
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

This route is a fun one. The line is not particulary inspiring, but the climbing is good. I am not sure if the "s" rating is too much, but there did seem to be a runout directly above the first belay.

To locate the route look for a right slanting crack/seam that leaves a ledge near a tree.

P1-(5.8) Follow the crack/seam up and right to a belay. The climbing is really fun and engaging.

P2-(5.9) Climb up towards some weird quarter inch bolts (runout). Step to the right and follow a good crack up to a belay.

P3-(5.8) Climb up apron (bolts) to a crack and steep face.

P4-(5.4) Continue over blocky terrain.

P5-(5.8) Climb up fragile rock (bolts and gear).

P6-(5.8) Make a move around a corner and traverse left and up the ridge.

Protection

Standard rack. I think all belays are bolted.
Kyle Jackson
Las Vegas, nv
 
Kyle Jackson   Las Vegas, nv
 
Ok climbing on so so rock, but a cool location makes this a good route to do if their is a party on jubilant song or if your looking for an out of the way route. I brought doubles of 1 and 2 camalots which was nice to have but not mandatory. Feb 11, 2013
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9
This is surprisingly a quality route by Red Rock standards. Although there were a few loose sections of rock overall the rock quality is good compared to some other "classics" in Red Rock. I think the grades in Handren's book are spot on except for P3... I think this could be 5.8+ or even 5.9. Getting out of the crack is considerably more difficult than any moves on P2. RP's or the equivalent are definitely helpful on this route- especially the last 5.8 pitch where there is scant pro and a fall here from either leader or follower could result in a dramatic pendulum. If you liked Jubilant Song this route should definitely be on your list to do. Jan 23, 2012
This is a fun route! Pitches 1 and 2 were very engaging. Pitch 2 felt slightly run out in spots, but it's not so steep so there's plenty of time to plan your moves. RP's came in handy. At the top of the crack traverse 6 feet right to the belay. This did feel 5.9.

I'm not sure what part of pitch 3 was 5.8, maybe after the easy apron, the initial part of the crack getting to the bolt. Anyway, that's a very short section and after clipping the bolt, traverse to the left 6 feet or so and then straight up 5.6 jugs to the anchor. The pictures make this look like it might be hard but it's really easy and fun.

Pitch 4: Go left after the belay to surmount the first 5' step then return to the middle directly over the belay and continue straight up following the best looking cracks and you'll run into the next anchor.

Pitch 5: Head straight up to the bolt and a little later you will have to surmount a bulge. There were some jugs on the left side of this, with good pro and a good high right foot you could rock over onto. 5.7. (There was a nice finger crack (also good pro) on the right side of the bulge that was maybe 5.8 or 5.9 but the sugary rock quality there did not inspire confidence). Keep going and you'll soon see the bolt for the traverse of the next pitch (which will be up and left of where you are now). The next anchor though is 20 feet directly to the right of that bolt.

Pitch 6: Traverse left pass the bolt (5.8) and head over to the vertical crack in the notch. Big jugs to the left of the crack make this little step easy too!

Pitch 7: Head for the cairns up and left (4th class).

To descend, follow cairns straight back (north) until more cairns turn you left (west) where you'll wind your way down (lot's of cairns) into the big gully heading south. After a ways keep a look out for the first col on your left where you'll see a giant cairn. Head to this (east) where you will be able to continue down the ramp underneath Jubilant Song and back to your packs. Nov 23, 2011
Doug Foust
Henderson, Nevada
 
Doug Foust   Henderson, Nevada
 
Wierd optical illusion while climbing pitch 5, looked up and saw the bolt for the traverse on pitch 6 and it looked freakishly huge, like 4 to 6 inches in size. The closer I got it looked smaller until it just looked like a regular bolt. My partner noticed the same illusion. Anyone else notice this or was it just wierd lighting at that particular time?

I ended up going straight to that bolt missing the anchors and linked the two pitches with some rope drag. Feb 13, 2011
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
  5.9- PG13
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
  5.9- PG13
First three pitches are great and would be 4-stars on their own. Suspect rock on the upper pitches, but fairly straightforward face climbing. Pro is spaced but adequate with no really dangerous situations. Bolted belays and some protection bolts make for fast climbing. We did it in 4 hours without rushing. Jan 23, 2011
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
Good route. Some thin moves on steep rock which alternated between slick varnish slopers and crumbly, soft edges kept my attention on this one. Was able to mitigate some of the runouts with tiny cams and tcu's(glad I threw a few extras on the rack).

Routefinding faux paux: On P2, I trended left across the face above the last bolt to a tree I spied in the corner up to my left(mistakenly thinking this tree was my destination--I didn't see the smaller bush up on the right til after the fact.). While belaying from this comfy ledge, I spied the missed anchor bolts about 40 feet directly across the slabs to climber's right. Fortunately, my partner was able to begin his lead of P3 from where I had stopped, by climbing straight up through the tree following a deep black corner(it takes pro) then making a short traverse right to gain the wide crack on the route. Looks like this variation has seen plenty of traffic. Nov 18, 2010
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
Peter- The Hot Fudge Thursday start is close to Jubilant-- maybe 100 yards away. Descent for both is the same. An efficient party could do the two routes. And if you were running late after the first one, you could certainly adjust your plans... Sep 29, 2010
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
I'm trying to get the start of Jubilant Song and Hot Fudge Thursday straight in my head. How far to the right is the start of HFT? And is the walk-off for HFT the same as for Jubilant Song? Just wondering how easy it would be to tick both routes on one day. Thanks. Sep 29, 2010
JSH

JSH    
With the exception of the first belay, all of the belays are quite comfortable ledges!

I wasn't quite sure where to go for the 4th pitch (5.6) - you make a few steep moves onto a sloping ledge, then it seems like you can either go left up a ramp, or back right, directly above your belayer. I did the latter, which got me to the next belay; but it seemed like the leftward option would also get you to the same place.

Still a decent amount of loose stuff - keep knocking, and tread lightly! Not hard to avoid or particularly dangerous, just to be aware that it's there. Apr 9, 2010
Daniel Trugman
La Jolla, CA
  5.9
Daniel Trugman   La Jolla, CA
  5.9
The first three pitches are very good, I'd go with 5.7, 5.9, 5.8. The final three are mediocre at best: 5.5, 5.8, 5.9-. Beautiful area with a good summit as an added bonus. Mar 17, 2010
Karsten Delap
North Carolina
  5.9 PG13
Karsten Delap   North Carolina
  5.9 PG13
This was a great route! All belays have new bolts. With doubles on smaller gear there are very few runout sections. Great on a cold day as the sun bakes you! Mar 8, 2009
Andrew Carson
Wilson, WY
  5.9 R
Andrew Carson   Wilson, WY
  5.9 R
We'd rate the pitches as they are in Handren's guide, that is, 5.8, 5.9, 5.8, 5.6, 5.9, 5.9. The last pitch, the short leftward traverse, is a little contrived, as you can go right along the sloping ledge and you're done.
All belay stations are bolted, but we missed two, so look around. And new bolts are there on several pitches, as noted in Handren's book.
Slightly runout, especially the second pitch, so don't pass up a placement, might be the best one for a ways! But I'm pretty chicken and I did it, so I bet you can, too!
We thought this was an excellent line and a fine climb, sustained and enjoyable. Dec 1, 2008