Swinging the Other Way
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 380 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||91 total · 24/month|
|Shared By:||Alex James on Nov 21, 2017|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionSomeone has definitely climbed this route before because we found a stuck hex on it. If you know the name, let me know and I'll update the route!
Approach as for Jubilant Song. The route starts 50ft down and right of Jubilant Song in a right facing corner. It shares a start with Western Swing.
P1: Climb the corner till it reaches a sloping ledge. Traverse up and right on the ledge to the base of the first left facing corner.
P2: Climb the left facing corner above past an alcove until a small ledge and a hanging belay beneath the large roof.
P3: Work up and slightly left to the left of two notches in the roof. Climb through the slot in the roof (crux of the route), ending up on a low angle slab above. Merge with the third belay on Jubilant Song.
Continue up Jubilant Song.
This is a good route for passing slower parties on Jubilant Song. It is about the same quality of climbing as the first three pitches of Jubilant Song in my opinion and merges back just before the money roof traverse pitch of Jubilant Song.