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Routes in South Face

A Nasty Gash T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
A Song & A Prayer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Crocodile Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hot Fudge Thursday T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Joanne of Arch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jubilant Song T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Marion's Melody T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slabotomy T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
St. Stephen T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swinging the Other Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thriller T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Western Swing T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windy Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Larry Hamilton & Joe Herbst, 1975
Page Views: 882 total · 5/month
Shared By: L. Hamilton on Apr 11, 2004
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

St. Stephen follows a wandering line immediately left of the huge left-facing corner system dominating the right side of the wall. Not sustained enough to be classic, it offers some decent moderate climbing in a peaceful high setting. Approach as for Jubilant Song. This following route description is from the first ascent, which was done a few days after Solar Slab.Pitch 1 -- Follow thin cracks up the varnished, pretty slabs at the base of the wall. Belay at a platform on a prominent ramp.Pitch 2 -- Continue up the ramp to belay in the main corner (5.8).Pitch 3 -- Instead of following the corner, climb a tight, left-slanting crack that splits the vertical face above (5.8). This crack is a key feature of the route, visible from below.Pitches 4-8 -- Two easy pitches go out onto the face to the left. Thin face climbing (5.8) bypasses a huge bulge on the left. The final lead goes up obvious rock to the top.Descend via an easy hike.

Protection

"A standard selection of nuts"
George Wilson
Las Vegas
 
George Wilson   Las Vegas
 
Fun route...A bit loose in area's, didn't like the solid sounding hold I took off, nothing to worry about though! I only followed the route and didn't feel anything on the upper slabs deserve above 5.5. A #5 protected pitch 3 somewhat well, a #6 or a big bro would help ease the mind. Straightforward as it get though...If ya bring a 50m, the belays work out, just as you're screaming "2 feet" your leader is screaming back "off belay"! I suspect a 60 or 70 would put you on better belay ledges. There are some potential pendulums for the follower on easier terrain. Good route!! Jan 6, 2009
Larry DeAngelo
Las Vegas, NV
 
Larry DeAngelo   Las Vegas, NV  
 
"A standard selection of nuts" may have worked well for the old masters, but a big cam (#4 Camalot or bigger) is unlikely to go unused in the slanting pitch 3 crack.

Also- the "thin 5.8 face climbing" high on the route is probably optional. I don't recall any tricky moves to access the upper slabs; not even any tricky routefinding. Jun 14, 2008

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