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Thriller
5.9,
Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
FA: John Wilder, Larry DeAngelo
Nevada
> Southern Nevada
> Red Rocks
> Windy Peak
> S Face
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS DURING OR AFTER RAIN. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery bone-dry sand), then do not climb. There
are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The
Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations:
Black Velvet Canyon,
The Hamlet,
Kraft Mountain Area,
The Gallery, and
The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Start in a low angle crack halfway between Ain't No Saint and Saint Stephen; climb up to an easy ramp. The second pitch goes up easy rock to a belay beneath a steep section of the ramp. Climb the steep section, then a crack system on the main wall to your left. A short rappel takes you to a good belay position in the gully at the base of a varnished wall. Sustained climbing along the left crack leads to a belay in the broken rock above. Then routefind up and left for two pitches, aiming for the left end of the large overhang capping this section of the face. Go left around the overhang and climb a long friction pitch with limited protection. Work out the best belay you can when you can get gear. Continue up the waterstreak and move right when reaching the headwall. Belay on a small perch just below the summit ridge. Fourth class leads to the top.
Location
Follow the normal approach to the south face of Windy Peak.
Protection
[Hide Photo] The right side of the south face of Windy Peak.