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Routes in d. Strictly - Shockley's

Anguish T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Armadillo's Delight T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Calisthenic T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Epiclepsy TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Gaston T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
Glypnod T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Glyptodon T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gorilla My Dreams T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Grim-Ace Face T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Hi Coroner! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
High Corner T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Midnight Cowboy T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Nemesis T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Oscar and Charlie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
PR T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Revenge of the Relics T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ribless (a.k.a. Spare Ribs) T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ribs T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ruby Saturday Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shockley's Ceiling T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Shockley's Without T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Simple Ceilings T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Splashtic T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Strictly From Nowhere T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Travels With Charley T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c R
Vicious Rumors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Yesterday's Lemonade T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: 1970: Helmut Microys and Eric Marshall
Page Views: 646 total · 16/month
Shared By: teresamatrix on Oct 6, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Climb the large right facing corner 35 feet to the right of Hi Corner and 10 feet left of Nemesis. At the overhangs 25 feet up, step left onto a dirty ledge and go up (there is a tree there and it might be best to negotiate your rope/yourself to the right of the tree). Carefully continue up some loose and scary flakes, zig-zagging a bit for solid pro. The rock gets more solid as it gets steeper at the top (crux) of the pitch. The end is the same belay/rap station as the first full pitch of Nemesis.

Location

Big right facing corner 35 feet right of Hi Corner and 10 feet left of Nemesis.

Protection

standard rack to 2 in.

Photos

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EricBacus
Germantown, NY
  5.8
EricBacus   Germantown, NY
  5.8
From the right facing corner I just went to the very top in one pitch. Its an easy and kinda run out start which leads to a flake fest above the first ledge then into a fun roof finish.

There is a solid rap/belay tree at the top which you would need two ropes to get down to the ground and our 70m rope got us to a wonky final rap. I don't think a 60m would get you down unless you trust the even wonkier nut rap under the crux. Sep 1, 2016
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
A Glyptodon...

Sep 6, 2015
Daniel Cassidy
Gardiner, NY
Daniel Cassidy   Gardiner, NY
I did this climb today without much knowledge of it. The climbing is actually pretty fun and interesting, however, there is a huge leaning boulder that you must climb on top of (pretty scary). After the large boulder there are lots of loose flakes that are ready to blow. the higher you get, the better the rock quality gets. The roof right before the first belay is pretty crimpy (at least the way that I went). The fixed anchor is questionable although there seems to be some new webbing on it Jul 24, 2015