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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Derek Price, Corky Woodring 1981
Page Views: 1,802 total, 14/month
Shared By: KTB on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Description

A short but fun pitch. Climb up a big flake and then over a bulge to a ledge under a huge roof. Route finding was a slight issue at the crux but there is a small dark crack that you can follow straight up and left to the ledge under the roof.

Location

Near the end of the Trapps by the S turns, well right of Casanova. We had a tough time finding a marked trail up so we scrambled up through the talus. On the way down we found a trail marker which was about 25-50' before the first turn on the carriage road.

Protection

Fixed anchor under roof for descent. Standard rack.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Gosh, I didn't see any burly moves on this climb. It was easy peasy, happy joyful. Holds abound and gear is plentiful. Really enjoyed this short climb. Once you are on the ledge above the flake, head slightly right to the vertical crack. Go up and left to the good horizontal for gear then head to the top. Oct 19, 2013
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, Maine
  5.7
This is a nice little route with initial big burly moves on great holds and then a tricky little crux bulge. A good end-of-the day pitch if you happen to be wandering around Sleepy Hollow. Sep 18, 2013
BigA  
For anyone interested a new route got climbed here that goes up off the trigger point anchor and straight out the big roof... Aug 28, 2012
Meghan Spiro  
 
Beautiful big flake. A great route for new 5.6 leaders - short and sweet. I thought the crux at the top was finding the route just past the vertical crack to the anchors. Oct 9, 2011
JSH

JSH    
Nice enough route. Dick lists a variation of P1 as climbing the face to the left of the crack, after you've come up the initial flakes and stepped right. I think this is what I did - it felt like a somewhat bigger move than 5.6. The route proper says to step right after the initial flakes, then continue up past the crack. Jul 10, 2009
Misha Tselman
New York, NY
Misha Tselman   New York, NY
For a second pitch traverse right under the roof until the end of the roof. Go up a broken crack system up the face. This is the second pitch of Krazy Krack (5.6 G) Apr 16, 2008