Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Derek Price, Corky Woodring 1981
Page Views: 1,938 total · 14/month
Shared By: KTB on Jun 4, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

18 Opinions

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A short but fun pitch. Climb up a big flake and then over a bulge to a ledge under a huge roof. Route finding was a slight issue at the crux but there is a small dark crack that you can follow straight up and left to the ledge under the roof.


Near the end of the Trapps by the S turns, well right of Casanova. We had a tough time finding a marked trail up so we scrambled up through the talus. On the way down we found a trail marker which was about 25-50' before the first turn on the carriage road.


Fixed anchor under roof for descent. Standard rack.


Misha Tselman
New York, NY
Misha Tselman   New York, NY
For a second pitch traverse right under the roof until the end of the roof. Go up a broken crack system up the face. This is the second pitch of Krazy Krack (5.6 G) Apr 16, 2008

Nice enough route. Dick lists a variation of P1 as climbing the face to the left of the crack, after you've come up the initial flakes and stepped right. I think this is what I did - it felt like a somewhat bigger move than 5.6. The route proper says to step right after the initial flakes, then continue up past the crack. Jul 10, 2009
Meghan Spiro  
Beautiful big flake. A great route for new 5.6 leaders - short and sweet. I thought the crux at the top was finding the route just past the vertical crack to the anchors. Oct 9, 2011
For anyone interested a new route got climbed here that goes up off the trigger point anchor and straight out the big roof... Aug 28, 2012
Peter Lewis
Bridgton, ME
Peter Lewis   Bridgton, ME
This is a nice little route with initial big burly moves on great holds and then a tricky little crux bulge. A good end-of-the day pitch if you happen to be wandering around Sleepy Hollow. Sep 18, 2013
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Gosh, I didn't see any burly moves on this climb. It was easy peasy, happy joyful. Holds abound and gear is plentiful. Really enjoyed this short climb. Once you are on the ledge above the flake, head slightly right to the vertical crack. Go up and left to the good horizontal for gear then head to the top. Oct 19, 2013