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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Robert Fenichel, Ken Marts
Page Views: 2,412 total, 24/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Sep 25, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

20 Opinions

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An obvious left arching corner way, way, way away from the crowds. The only reason to climb this is to be able to say you've done every route in the Trapps. Don't expect a line of chalked holds.


The last route in the Trapps, 200' or so rightwards past the corner of Fancy Free. Climbing is prohibited beyond this point.

Swain says to watch for alligators.


Standard gunks rack.


Simon Marchand
Montreal, Quebec
Simon Marchand   Montreal, Quebec
The route is good, but considering the walk required to get there, not worth the effort. Good to do on Saturdays though, as no one is in that sector. Jun 30, 2014

I fourth the idea that this route is reasonably fun; very much like 3 Pines, if shorter. I traversed the face below the roof, which was within the grade range.

There's new cord around the (dead) tree up top. Jun 9, 2014
Barrett Stetson  
Climbed this Easter weekend because it was super busy up front. Fun route, climbed all the way to roof and traversed directly underneath, which felt easier than 5.4, except maybe the exit around the edge of the roof. It looked like traversing the face below the roof was possible, probably harder, and dirty. Gear was good. The belay is somewhat hanging under a massive tree though. A single 8ft sling wasn't enough to make it around it and get a knot in it. The rap anchor on that tree had 4 pieces of webbing, 3 of which were pretty old and seemed to be stretched out by the growth of the tree, and the 4th being newer but of thinner material. If I'd had extra webbing, I would've added another new piece probably. Apr 27, 2014
I also think this is a star-worthy route. Is it worth it to come all the way down here just to climb it? No. But if you're down doing some of the other routes in Sleepy Hollow, it's worth a look! May 14, 2012
Seemed like 2 stars to me. Apr 13, 2011