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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Kevin Bein, Frank Minunni and Ken Driese, 1987
Page Views: 184 total, 7/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Sep 23, 2015
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

I'm not sure if the line I'm describing is the original line, but after a couple runs on TR this seems to be the most logical line through this section of the wall.

Start on some right-facing lieback flakes to the left of Art's Route's corner. Climb the flakes for a bit to a stance in the flakes/corner about 10' below where the corner turns into a ledge on the left. Make a tricky/reachy move up right over a bulge to a good hold and work your feet into the red ramp on the right. Climb straight up the fun face at 5.8/5.9 to some pumpy lieback moves on a sloper that get you established on jugs below the roof. Pull the roof on the right side and up to jugs above lip. Continue up to the Art's Route rap tree, passing a final move or two at a bulge/overhang near the top.

The route as described is clean and great fun with some awesome face climbing and a surprisingly thoughtful roof to pull. We TR'd it but it looks like it could be led with good enough gear at the hard climbing.

My understanding of this route in the guidebook is that it continues up and left on the lower flakes to a ledge, and then pulls the roof on its left side at a right-facing corner. Climbing up and left off the ledge is tricky and the moves above the roof are covered in lichen.

Location

A bit left of Art's Route. Start on right-facing flakes, or on another jug/flake system just to the right.

Protection

A few pieces down low in the flakes and maybe a couple tinkery pieces on the face. A good small cam can be found under the roof to the left of the crux (possible yellow alien?).

Photos

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lostlazy
Hoboken, NJ
lostlazy   Hoboken, NJ
In regards to TR, the higher you go on this route, the closer you get to a tree directly behind climber. About half-way up, you are about six feet away, a fall here on TR might cause a swing into one of the many painful branches. It appears that the most painful branch has been bent and twisted away, but the others will still leave a mark. Nov 1, 2016
frank minunni
Las Vegas, NV
frank minunni   Las Vegas, NV
In regard to it being possible to lead, the FA was an on sight lead. The gear down low is pretty small and sketchy. You could hit the pillar if you're not careful. The original route goes as described. I didn't veer left as I recall. Dec 28, 2015