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Meat By-Products
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Are We There Yet? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bone Hard T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
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Boron Destroyer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casa de mi Padre T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Casa Emilio T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Circumcisor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fancy Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Goombahs in the Mist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hawaii Five-Ten T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headless Horseman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Numbers Racket, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Second Breakfast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shock and Awe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Shock Therapy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Slime World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V.D. T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Worp Factor 1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Kevin Bein, Frank Minunni and Ken Driese, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 941 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Simon Thompson on Sep 23, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, RJ B |
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Description
I'm not sure if the line I'm describing is the original line, but after a couple runs on TR this seems to be the most logical line through this section of the wall.
Start on some right-facing lieback flakes to the left of Art's Route's corner. Climb the flakes for a bit to a stance in the flakes/corner about 10' below where the corner turns into a ledge on the left. Make a tricky/reachy move up right over a bulge to a good hold and work your feet into the red ramp on the right. Climb straight up the fun face at 5.8/5.9 to some pumpy lieback moves on a sloper that get you established on jugs below the roof. Pull the roof on the right side and up to jugs above lip. Continue up to the Art's Route rap tree, passing a final move or two at a bulge/overhang near the top.
The route as described is clean and great fun with some awesome face climbing and a surprisingly thoughtful roof to pull. We TR'd it but it looks like it could be led with good enough gear at the hard climbing.
My understanding of this route in the guidebook is that it continues up and left on the lower flakes to a ledge, and then pulls the roof on its left side at a right-facing corner. Climbing up and left off the ledge is tricky and the moves above the roof are covered in lichen.
Start on some right-facing lieback flakes to the left of Art's Route's corner. Climb the flakes for a bit to a stance in the flakes/corner about 10' below where the corner turns into a ledge on the left. Make a tricky/reachy move up right over a bulge to a good hold and work your feet into the red ramp on the right. Climb straight up the fun face at 5.8/5.9 to some pumpy lieback moves on a sloper that get you established on jugs below the roof. Pull the roof on the right side and up to jugs above lip. Continue up to the Art's Route rap tree, passing a final move or two at a bulge/overhang near the top.
The route as described is clean and great fun with some awesome face climbing and a surprisingly thoughtful roof to pull. We TR'd it but it looks like it could be led with good enough gear at the hard climbing.
My understanding of this route in the guidebook is that it continues up and left on the lower flakes to a ledge, and then pulls the roof on its left side at a right-facing corner. Climbing up and left off the ledge is tricky and the moves above the roof are covered in lichen.
Location
A bit left of Art's Route. Start on right-facing flakes, or on another jug/flake system just to the right.
Photos
- No Photos -
2 Comments