Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, TR, 70 ft|
|FA:||Kevin Bein, Frank Minunni and Ken Driese, 1987|
|Page Views:||201 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Simon Thompson on Sep 23, 2015|
DescriptionI'm not sure if the line I'm describing is the original line, but after a couple runs on TR this seems to be the most logical line through this section of the wall.
Start on some right-facing lieback flakes to the left of Art's Route's corner. Climb the flakes for a bit to a stance in the flakes/corner about 10' below where the corner turns into a ledge on the left. Make a tricky/reachy move up right over a bulge to a good hold and work your feet into the red ramp on the right. Climb straight up the fun face at 5.8/5.9 to some pumpy lieback moves on a sloper that get you established on jugs below the roof. Pull the roof on the right side and up to jugs above lip. Continue up to the Art's Route rap tree, passing a final move or two at a bulge/overhang near the top.
The route as described is clean and great fun with some awesome face climbing and a surprisingly thoughtful roof to pull. We TR'd it but it looks like it could be led with good enough gear at the hard climbing.
My understanding of this route in the guidebook is that it continues up and left on the lower flakes to a ledge, and then pulls the roof on its left side at a right-facing corner. Climbing up and left off the ledge is tricky and the moves above the roof are covered in lichen.
LocationA bit left of Art's Route. Start on right-facing flakes, or on another jug/flake system just to the right.
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