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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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After The Prick T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Are We There Yet? T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Art's Route T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Attention Span T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Boron Destroyer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Casa de mi Padre T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Casa Emilio T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Circumcisor T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b X |
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Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fan, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fancy Free T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Girls Just Want to Have Fun T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R |
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Goombahs in the Mist T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Hawaii Five-Ten T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Modern Love T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c X |
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Numbers Racket, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R |
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Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Prophylactic T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Second Breakfast T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Shock and Awe T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Shock Therapy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Slime World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Square Dance with Death T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V.D. T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Worp Factor 1 T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 41.75034, -74.17373 |
| FA: | TR: Dave Lanman 1988 Lead: Alan Kline 2023 |
| Page Views: | 149 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | akline on Feb 8, 2025 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
Description
This route is an intimidating, committing bit of climbing from bottom to top with multiple X-rated sections. The crux is protected by an extremely hard-to-place-well blue slider nut. Placing this gear is terrifying because you are already committed and runout at this point. One of the most dangerous climbs in the Gunks.
It took many seasons of working and sussing to be able to wrap my mind around leading.
The climbing is fantastic with unique movement and fantastic rock the whole way.
It is easy to get to the top of the block to set the climb up on TR, however the actual anchor building is not strait forward due to loose rock and a dead tree. There is good gear to be had, and a useful hidden pin. Bring a #3 Camalot for the anchor, or even bigger.
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