Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: FA 1963 Sean Hayes, Joe Kelsey, Dave Ingalls. FFA 1965 Layton Kor, Dick Williams
Page Views: 853 total · 10/month
Shared By: ericcr on Sep 26, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

V.D. is an easily top-roped problem directly below the 10,000 Restless Virgins tat anchor. It ascends a finger crack on the opposite wall- the cave side of Dick's Prick Pinnacle.

The starting moves (either way) are interesting and the crack requires at least one legitimate crack move. It's worth trying.

Location

Start at the low point of the gulley beneath 10,000 and Girls Just Want to Have Fun, ten feet left of 10,000. Boulder up to slopey, small ledge (or chimney up a few moves.) Follow finger crack straight up to the top of the pinnacle.

There is sometimes a webbing rappel anchor on top of the pinnacle (none as of 2013 - see comment). The only downclimbing options are fifth class.

Protection

The boulder start is unprotected. The finger crack accepts gear the rest of the way.

Photos

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georgejessel  
 
I topropped this the other day to gain the top of the pinnacle for vanity purposes (photographing my second on Restless Virgins).

It's actually a solid route that would take bomber gear except for the unprotectable and challenging first half. It also has moves significantly harder than Restless Virgins--including some finger jams, and the 10- grade is a fantastic sandbag. As of this date there's no anchor of any kind on the pinnacle summit. May 21, 2013
JSH

JSH    
The route Dick's Prick was added in June 2013, and notes an anchor on top of the pinnacle. Jun 25, 2013
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
I was up there today, people are missing the anchor - it's ancient and crispy, definatly been around for a long time. Poke around, you'll see it. Apr 17, 2016
Kor thought this was the only route he did in the 'Gunks that deserved a 5.10 rating - so the locals at the time rated it 5.9 to mess with him a little. Aug 3, 2018