Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 1981 Todd Swain and Thom Scheuer
Page Views: 280 total · 9/month
Shared By: john2.71 on Apr 25, 2016
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1 (5.4G) has only one climbing move and the rest is a scramble. That one move is legit 5.4, and it is protectable. Should you rope up for a single move? Would you solo a 5.4 a few feet above jagged boulders? It's your call.

Scramble behind the pinnacle until you are under two blocks wedged between the pinnacle and the main wall. Climb the back face of the pinnacle for one move, then walk left on the ledge. Belay here for P2.

P2 (5.5 PG-13) - From the block on the left, climb to the first overhang with a brittle piton. Plug some gear here, because there is none for another 8 ft. Move right to a gap in the second overhang. Then straight to the top.

Note this route is very dirty and will require cleaning and digging for holds and placements.

Location

The start of the route is the north end of the Thom's Thumb pinnacle. You could scramble into the chimney or simply belay here for convenience if you are planning to belay at all for P1.

There is no rap tree. Walk left to find one.

Protection

Standard gunks rack.

Photos

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Michael 89
Doylestown, PA
Michael 89   Doylestown, PA
Three stars if you enjoy gardening. Protection could be more straightforward if clean. Apr 26, 2016