Type: Trad
FA: Joe Bridges and Dick Williams, 1988
Page Views: 1,533 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

The first clear path after Wasp and the Slime Wall leads directly to this route.

Locate the enormous block leaning up against the cliff that is past the Slime Wall. On the right side of the block, there is a right-diagonaling crack that leads to a small overhang. Up the crack, over the hang (crux) and then either diagonal up and left to the front of the block and a belay/rap tree, or belay shortly after the overhang, then go up to the tree. Beware of several large and very loose blocks on the small ledge after crux.

This route is short, but the moves are interesting and well protected with a standard 'Gunks rack.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack

Photos

JSH

 
JSH    
 
As of 7/09, there are fairly-new rap slings around a fairly-dead and fairly-short stump. I'd advise continuing 20' more to the top - you can easily belay from the top, walk off the back then stroll down to your pack. Jul 10, 2009
chewtoynj   NJ
I agree with the top out advice. I climbed this route with a friend yesterday. He stood on one the the blocks before the last roof and the whole block shifted under his weight. BE REALLY CAREFUL, it's teetering on the edge. Other than that. It's a great, safe well protected route. Jun 9, 2010
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.8
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.8
In addition, there is one rectangular block that looks a little questionable right near the top-out. To climbers' left of that is a very scary death-flake barely hanging on to a small loose ledge. Take care to keep your rope from running over/behind it. Jun 2, 2013
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
This route is worth doing just to see the amazing hinged block! After belaying up my second to a gear anchor above the half-dead tree rapp station, I decided to head up the on the right (looks easier) instead of the left (looks more interesting). When I put some weight on the mini-fridge size block above, it pivoted 30 degrees without making a sound and swung back when I backed off. Exciting! Oct 10, 2016