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Almost Pure and Simple [Suggest Change]
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 1.6 from 11
votes
Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Casa Emilio T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13 |
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Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Joe Bridges and Dick Williams, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,484 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Dana Bartlett on Apr 3, 2009 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description [Suggest Change]
The first clear path after Wasp and the Slime Wall leads directly to this route.
Locate the enormous block leaning up against the cliff that is past the Slime Wall. On the right side of the block, there is a right-diagonaling crack that leads to a small overhang. Up the crack, over the hang (crux) and then either diagonal up and left to the front of the block and a belay/rap tree, or belay shortly after the overhang, then go up to the tree. Beware of several large and very loose blocks on the small ledge after crux.
This route is short, but the moves are interesting and well protected with a standard 'Gunks rack.
Locate the enormous block leaning up against the cliff that is past the Slime Wall. On the right side of the block, there is a right-diagonaling crack that leads to a small overhang. Up the crack, over the hang (crux) and then either diagonal up and left to the front of the block and a belay/rap tree, or belay shortly after the overhang, then go up to the tree. Beware of several large and very loose blocks on the small ledge after crux.
This route is short, but the moves are interesting and well protected with a standard 'Gunks rack.
NJ
New Paltz, NY