Avg: 2.7 from 94 votes
Routes in k. The Slime Wall
|April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R|
|Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Andress, John Hudson, Dave Craft and Pete Geiser, 1961|
|Page Views:||3,577 total, 26/month|
|Shared By:||Mike fenice on Jun 6, 2006|
DescriptionThis route gets three starts in the Gunks Select, and for good reasons. It's got great climbing and tends to be less crowded, due to the lack of other moderates around it.
Start 40' right of the hanging left-facing corner of Frustration Syndrome, at the last obvious crack on the right.
On the first ascent Pete Geiser put his finger in a pocket and got stung by ... you guessed it ... a wasp! For the longest time I had trouble finding a partner who wasn't afraid of wasps to climb this route. Rumor also has it that the name stands for White Anglo-Saxon Protestant.
P1: Climb the crack and shallow left-facing corner (crux), then up the right-facing corner and crack above (still hard) until it is capped by a small overhang. Step left, and continue easily up the face to the GT Ledge and belay, 5.9, 160'.
This pitch can be nicely split into a 5.9 and a 5.6 pitch with a semi-hanging gear belay at or above the rooflet; considering the low crux, this might be a good approach.
From the GT, two ropes get you to the bottom of the route from the tree; a tree ~40' right will get you to the top of the mound right of the start with one rope (but watch the ends).
P2: This pitch is short but fun 5.9 climbing. Move left and climb the right-facing corner. From here, move up and right through a notch in the left-facing corner to the top and head left to a pine-tree rap station. 5.9, 90'.