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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 230 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Andress, John Hudson, Dave Craft and Pete Geiser, 1961
Page Views: 3,577 total, 26/month
Shared By: Mike fenice on Jun 6, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

This route gets three starts in the Gunks Select, and for good reasons. It's got great climbing and tends to be less crowded, due to the lack of other moderates around it.

Start 40' right of the hanging left-facing corner of Frustration Syndrome, at the last obvious crack on the right.

On the first ascent Pete Geiser put his finger in a pocket and got stung by ... you guessed it ... a wasp! For the longest time I had trouble finding a partner who wasn't afraid of wasps to climb this route. Rumor also has it that the name stands for White Anglo-Saxon Protestant.

P1: Climb the crack and shallow left-facing corner (crux), then up the right-facing corner and crack above (still hard) until it is capped by a small overhang. Step left, and continue easily up the face to the GT Ledge and belay, 5.9, 160'.

This pitch can be nicely split into a 5.9 and a 5.6 pitch with a semi-hanging gear belay at or above the rooflet; considering the low crux, this might be a good approach.

From the GT, two ropes get you to the bottom of the route from the tree; a tree ~40' right will get you to the top of the mound right of the start with one rope (but watch the ends).

P2: This pitch is short but fun 5.9 climbing. Move left and climb the right-facing corner. From here, move up and right through a notch in the left-facing corner to the top and head left to a pine-tree rap station. 5.9, 90'.

Protection

Small nuts and RPs will protect the thin crux move. Otherwise, standard rack.

Photos

Systematic
  5.9
Systematic  
  5.9
Thin, interesting, face climbing close to the deck. Good fun if you're into that sort of thing. The following 20-30' is excellent, still relatively challenging, well protected face climbing.

Descent beta: We tried the approach mentioned by Kenr above. With a single 60m rope, we used the rappel station on a tree ~30' climbers left on the belay ledge. You can see this second tree from the WASP belay tree. KNOT YOUR ENDS. Rappel pretty much straight down ~29.9m to a small roof where tree branches will poke you in the back. You will see a bolted anchor to your left.

GEAR BETA: Small shallow astronut can be worked into the seam to protect first 1-2 moves. It doesn't look very good but my second had to use a nut tool to get it out... There is a pod that will seat a good multi-directional piece to protect another 1-2 thin moves. I think blowing the crux move would land you pretty close to the deck, even if you clipped that second piece short. Would be curious to hear if anyone's ever tested it. Jul 5, 2016
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
Our experience at the start of P2 matched the Grey Dick beta. I tried the 5.9 variation (climb to roof, traverse right and pull the roof just to the right of the big left-facing corner) but couldn't get over the overhang. Decent pro but very pumpy move or two. I backed off and now think I should have tried farther to the right.

My partner started up the the 5.5 variation (move up left to weakness in roof). Easy climbing but lots of loose, hollow rock. There was also recent rockfall evident on the GT. We bailed with our tails between our legs.

P1 was really, really good. Oct 22, 2015
kenr
 
kenr  
 
With a single 60-meter rope, we got down from the GT ledge by walking about 30 ft climber's left (south) on a slopey ledge to a big tree with slings and rap rings around it. We rappeled from that trending somewhat south (descender's right) and reached the bolt anchor for Frustration Syndrome top of its first pitch. A short single-rope rap from there to the ground.

Of course this climb (whatever the Williams guidbook may say) is not in the same league with 9s like Bonnies or Ants or Roseland.

Seems like it would benefit from having a structure like Frustration Syndrome nearby: bolt anchor just above the 5.8-5.9 section -- for those who lack interest in way too many more of the usual Trapps horizontals, and just want to get back down in a straightforward way with a single rope. Oct 7, 2015
Adam Fernandez
Matawan NJ
  5.9 PG13
Adam Fernandez   Matawan NJ
  5.9 PG13
Did the climb onsight and thought the beginning crux section was very good. I found a solid placement for a purple C3 under the first hanging block after the first couple moves. Before this a good spot should help you avoid any problems. After that i placed a red c 3 in the horizontal out left. A blue c4 fits in the obvious pod but it eliminates a good foothold if you place it there. Once you get under the roof its all over. The climbing above is the usual Gunks 5.5 ladder but as mentioned before its long and on clean rock in a nice quiet area.

  • *Note** There is a small loose block near the top of the climb almost directly under the belay/rap tree. It is about the size of a shoe box and wiggles in place. It is Dark Orange in color. There is no need to grab it and it can be easily avoided but it was marked with an X as of 5-5-13.
May 6, 2013
BrianRH
Jersey City, NJ
 
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
 
The second pitch is kind of interesting as well. The crux is not 5.9, though (unless we got lost). I think the Williams guide put it at 5.6 or so, which seemed right. It could arguably be 5.7. Like the rest of the Slime Wall climbs, it is quiet. Jun 6, 2011
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
  5.9
This route gets three stars because if one cut the first 30 feet from it, the pitch would be 130 feet of spectacular easy face climbing on superb rock in a quiet location. Mar 21, 2011
Goodhue
Boulder, CO
  5.8
Goodhue   Boulder, CO
  5.8
This climb is incredibly boring. How does this get three stars compared to other three star routes like Ant's Line and Bonnie's Roof? It is about 15' of about 5.8, followed by lots of uninteresting easy face climbing. My personal recommendation, don't bother. Sep 27, 2010
Robbie Flick
Denver, CO
  5.9
Robbie Flick   Denver, CO
  5.9
My climbing buddy and I cruised down here several weeks after on a very busy day to escape the crowds. We got on the climb and weren't sure if we were on an established route; cobwebs, vegetation, and lichen everywhere.

We found the crux to be the first couple moves on the cracks, where it's a bit steeper. Protection was iffy and took a creative approach.

After the rap station, we weren't sure where the route went (guidebook was quite unclear) so opted to go straight up and over the small roof. The moves from the corner onto and above the roof were exciting, which then led to easy 5th class and 4th class scrambling over lichen and through a meadow to the top. We passed a sling that must be at least 20 years old. Be aware that loose rock is a problem on this section.

Despite the ease of climbing, was actually quite fun as it gave such an accessible area a more adventurous feel. That, and it was one of the most beautiful and isolated climbs I've done here. Highly recommended! Sep 5, 2010
Brian
North Kingstown, RI
5.9
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
5.9
I agree with Julie that the beginning moves protect with the smallest nut (4KN) that I carry which adds a bit of spice to the climb.

The second pitch you are describing is actually an old variation called "Stubai To You" and is part of a climb called "Expedition to Nowhere." The second pitch of Wasp is a 5.5. Many people link the two to keep the grade more consistent. Jun 7, 2010
This was my first 5.9 lead, coaxed into it by the crazy Brit John Beavin. The crux wasn't the hard moves anywhere on the route, it was the ride up from Rockland Co. in his car. He drove insanely fast and nonchalantly passed slower vehicles wherever the shoulder was wide enough for oncoming traffic to veer out of our way. Tense moments each time, as I prayed the fellow hurtling toward me would think to get over there before hitting us.
Free-soloing that route would have caused less anxiety. I remember thinking, "Well, maybe I'll die trying this and won't have to ride home!" Jan 17, 2010
JSH

JSH    
The crux is tricky to protect *well*. I use a BD micronut, an upward-pull nut down lower, &/ pink and black tricams. Your mileage may vary. I also later found a good BD TCU placement once we'd given up our Aliens.

The climbing above the GT seemed very loose - we opted not to continue.

This is a favorite route of mine, and was my first (intentional) 5.9 once upon a time. Nov 5, 2008
Risi
 
Risi  
 
Gear: Small cams, 3CU/TCU and/or ballnutz are helpful on the first 20 feet (crux).

Bringing one or two cams up to #2 is a good idea for the easier, sweet face above the short right-facing corner if you don't like making mild runouts. If you bring #3, it will definitely find its uses as well, although it's not necessary. Nov 5, 2007