Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Routes in k. The Slime Wall
|April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R|
|Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft, 4 pitches|
|FA:||1971 Nick Pott and Steve Jervis|
|Page Views:||282 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||. on Apr 20, 2015|
DescriptionStart at a very short right-facing corner, approximately 50ft right of The Blue Stink. The first couple moves were not protectable and worth a spot.
P1. Climb up and left to the top of a large pedestal. A small group of trees on the left side makes for a good belay station. ~50ft.
P2. Continue to the left of the belay into and up the obvious large corner. There are two rap/belay stations in this corner. I opted to belay from the second station because of the overall arc of the climb. Rope drag would have become a major issue if I continued. ~50ft
P3. Traverse out right on an easy ledge just above the roof. I found a #2 placement at the end of this traverse. The climb goes up and right diagonally to the GT ledge. Lots of lichen and dirt on this pitch. ~50ft
P4. A bit of a scramble to the top with several large ledges. I came across a piton about half way up this section. The route ends in a sea of brambles, which I had to beat a hole in to even get over the lip, then search for a living tree to belay from. Lots of lichen and dirt on this pitch. ~60ft
We scrambled another 10ft to get to the true top.
LocationRight of Simple Suff and The Blue Stink, and left of Falled on Account of Strain.
The raps mentioned are likely for Comedy in 3 Acts.
ProtectionA standard rack of cams and nuts up to a #2 protects this route well.
There are several rap stations in the major corner on P2. I came across a piton in the upper section but may have been off route. We topped out and used two rap stations about 60ft to the right, these were long two-rope rappels. The first rappel ended with three options within 40ft of each other for the second rappel, the middle one is the obvious one. The second rappel goes down and right to a large pine tree. From here you may scramble down to the right or rap for a third time off the large pine.