Avg: 2 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 190 ft (58 m), 4 pitches|
|FA:||1971 Nick Pott and Steve Jervis|
|Page Views:||783 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Ti ck on Apr 20, 2015|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1. Climb up and left to the top of a large pedestal. A small group of trees on the left side makes for a good belay station. ~50ft.
P2. Continue to the left of the belay into and up the obvious large corner. There are two rap/belay stations in this corner. I opted to belay from the second station because of the overall arc of the climb. Rope drag would have become a major issue if I continued. ~50ft
P3. Traverse out right on an easy ledge just above the roof. I found a #2 placement at the end of this traverse. The climb goes up and right diagonally to the GT ledge. Lots of lichen and dirt on this pitch. ~50ft
P4. A bit of a scramble to the top with several large ledges. I came across a piton about half way up this section. The route ends in a sea of brambles, which I had to beat a hole in to even get over the lip, then search for a living tree to belay from. Lots of lichen and dirt on this pitch. ~60ft
We scrambled another 10ft to get to the true top.
There are several rap stations in the major corner on P2. I came across a piton in the upper section but may have been off route. We topped out and used two rap stations about 60ft to the right, these were long two-rope rappels. The first rappel ended with three options within 40ft of each other for the second rappel, the middle one is the obvious one. The second rappel goes down and right to a large pine tree. From here you may scramble down to the right or rap for a third time off the large pine.