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Routes in k. The Slime Wall
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April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drop Zone T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pressure Drop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Techno-Suff T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Yellow Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | John Bragg, Don Hamilton 1980 |
| Page Views: | 329 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | akline on Aug 9, 2017 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use the bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
You'll climb straight up towards a thin seam, just down and left of a left-facing corner, then over a small roof near the end of the climb.
Big moves between good holds and gear lead to the seam, where a red tricam is the only piece of gear you can fiddle in the little pod above the detached block. Move up and left toward a thin seam splitting the roof, and then make the hard traverse right to the left-facing corner. Easier climbing leads to a stance for a gear anchor.
Big moves between good holds and gear lead to the seam, where a red tricam is the only piece of gear you can fiddle in the little pod above the detached block. Move up and left toward a thin seam splitting the roof, and then make the hard traverse right to the left-facing corner. Easier climbing leads to a stance for a gear anchor.
Location
Start to the left of Frustration Syndrome, just a few feet right of a oak tree near the cliff, at a cleanish section of rock.
Protection
Bring small gear, micro wires, and a red tri-cam. Traverse right at the top to the Frustration bolts to descend.
Photos
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