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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: FA Dick Williams, Jim McCarthy & Ants Leemets..FFA John Stannard
Page Views: 1,888 total, 16/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Dec 12, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

A funky crux, layback move with hard-to-place gear.

About 50 feet left of Frustration Syndrome, climb the steep face to a small overhang, make a hard move and reach a good ledge below a thin crack/pod. Dink with gear and make a several funky moves to reach a ledge and the anchor. Rap.

Location

Fifty feet left of Frustration Syndrome.

Protection

Mostly small wires and Rp's.

Photos

- No Photos -
paulmadry  
 
Have a C3 000. Place it with middle lobe to left, sliding it up from the bottom. It doesn't work the other way.
Or brassies, but I didn't use them as crux protection. Aug 19, 2013
akline
  5.11 R
akline  
  5.11 R
Even with the tiny nut holding, if you blow the crux you could slam your heels into the ledge that you start the crux sequence from. it's not a nice fall. Nov 14, 2011
lucander
Stone Ridge, NY
 
lucander   Stone Ridge, NY
 
One Gunkie hit it right on the head - 5.11+ to figure it out, 5.10+ thereafter. Apr 1, 2009
This is actually a great technical little climb. The small overhang at the bottom is probably 10a and fun move with the undercling. The crux is actually "well" protected with the yellow HB Brassie(it is good as I whipped on it on my onsight attempt). The crux involves a very technical sequence crip, to gaston to layback. Be comfortable going over very small gear(there is bomber gear below the HB , although you don't want to rely on the big bomber gear as you would likely hit the little ledge if you blew the crux and did not have the brassie in) Jul 12, 2008
This is one of the weirdest pitches I've ever tried. The moves leaving "crack/pod" are somewhere, but I didn't find 'em. I vividly recall slotting a #3 stopper upside down, and getting about two feet above it. Three attempts over a couple of months--ended up exactly the same place each time, splayed out in an exotic pose on a tiny edge and a miniscule scoop. Feb 19, 2008