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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drop Zone T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: John Stannard, 1970s
Page Views: 1,343 total · 23/month
Shared By: Ben J. on Nov 10, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

6 Opinions

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This is a fun little route, with the emphasis on little. A bit of face climbing gains the alcove above. Great thin hands jamming and stemming can be used to get through the overhang. Exit left over the next overhang with one more fun move to easier ground. Those with a strong crack background will likely find this climb easier, but the crux still probably won't be a gimme.


The start is climber's right of Last Frontier by about 30 feet. It looked to me like there are 3 options for getting off the ground and accessing the meat of the climb in the alcove. I ended up starting directly below the alcove and moving up a short, unprotected face with a pretty good landing. The next option to the right follows a left leaning broken crack with some tricky footwork; this start has a bit of a rougher landing. The farthest right start also was a left leaning broken crack/seam. This looked like it might have had the easiest climbing. In any case, no gear for the first 10 or 15 feet until you are into the alcove.


A few cams from finger size to a #2 or #3 C4. You can rap off from the top of the Last Frontier corner to your left (fixed rap station on a tree). A #4 also comes in handy to back up the tree for an anchor, but probably isn't necessary. Crux protects well with a .75 or #1 C4.


Daniel Affsprung
New Paltz, NY
Daniel Affsprung   New Paltz, NY
Bring cord or something, the anchor's looking real bad. Sep 15, 2015

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