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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Russ Raffa & Eliot Williams - 1977
Page Views: 9,505 total · 66/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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Falled on Account of Strain is a great climb that culminates in a huge roof finish. This is one of the easiest lines up the Slime Wall, but it's no gimmie.

Start about 100' right of Simple Suff and 20' left of April Showers, at a thin crack/seam.

P1: Head up a nice but runout face left of the seam/crack to a bolted anchor. 5.9+, 80'.

P2: Belay, or continue up and right to the massive roof. It's difficult to discern exactly where to pull this roof, but you basically have to do a very big move off a small undercling to reach up over the roof. Once you do this crux move, you'll see some fixed pins that reassure you that you're going the right way. Continue to the belay/rap anchor (new bolts in 2017). 5.10b, 80'.


Standard Rack. #3 Camalot useful for a wide horizontal crack on the first pitch.
Alissa Doherty
Boston, MA
Alissa Doherty   Boston, MA
Gunks short person beta: after a rightward traverse on the first pitch, there is a section of blank face before a horizontal for hands and gear. It's really difficult to reach if you're short. I was able to gain the horizontal on the very right end--anywhere else would involve a jump and it's not a great place for jumping. Just a heads up that this pitch is extra heads up for the vertically challenged.

On the bright side, you won't get shut down on the roofs--it doesn't look like it, but they're all within reach. Oct 11, 2017
I climbed this route on May 19th, 2016 with John Steiger. I thought it was a great route, but for me the name of the climb was eerily appropriate.

On the last move, I strained/slightly tore a hamstring tendon behind my knee. At the crux you go through a series of tiered overhangs to a last move that is long reach. After grabbing the second to last bucket, I threw my right leg up high into a horizontal crack for toe-heel lock/hook and pulled while cranking a pull-up into a lockoff and long reach. I must have had my knee a bit too twisted because as I elevated I felt something behind my knee go "twang" (It felt as if someone plucked a bass string behind my leg). That was all she wrote - weekend-long Gunks trip cut a day short!

I've never had such an injury before, but based on internet research such heel-hook derived injuries are actually fairly common. My advice is if you are strong on lock-offs, you probably won't need the foot cam.

(Two months later, my leg is 80% healed and I am back in the gym. But avoiding heel hooks for now.) Jul 19, 2016
M Bageant
Cambridge, MA
M Bageant   Cambridge, MA
Ugh, the thin moves off the deck on this one are spooky. If you misread the route like I did it's easy to pitch off from about 12'. Fortunately my partner was a HERO and caught me. (The climbing was subsequently aborted to get stitches for his lacerated face from the gear on my harness.)

Personally I wouldn't get on this one again without some really detailed beta on how to do the thin start and/or a really solid pad and spotter. Jun 13, 2016
Riverdale, NY
cPay   Riverdale, NY
for those that have onsighted this climb, good job! pretty touch to read where to pull the last roof, and its one spot! all the chalk all over the place is incredibly misleading, I traversed to the right too far, on a large flake jug that should NOT be touched, that thing flexed/cracked. Hanging out, locking off trying to find where to pull, definitely made this feel hard, not so hard for 10b once you know that move :)
btw, I lead this with a 60m rope and and built my own anchor at the low point of the fixed one, and lowered to the ground just to the end of my rope. Oct 10, 2014
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
An incredible route! I thought the first pitch was very easy for 5.9. Perhaps a little thin but the gear and hold are all there. Do the whole thing in one pitch! I would recommend skipping the bolted anchors because they are quite a ways left of the line plus the climbing is very easy from the bolts to the roof. Sep 19, 2014
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
I linked P1 and P2 this weekend, but broke the ceiling farther right than most of the climbers who are pictured on this page.

Gear beta and route description:

I went about 20 ~ 25 feet right of the P1 bolts to a fractured, bulging rock just beneath the ceiling - which had many .75 placements in horizontals, but a shallow blue alien placement on more solid rock to the right - then up (crux) to a chalked horizontal-pancake jug that took a red camalot, then right and up again to jugs, and finally traversed 6 feet left to the finish. Didn't see any pitons, but it felt like 5.10 a/b, and I found a way to get past a seemingly-big reach.

After seeing the mountain project pictures I was worried that I went off route, but I'm not sure because the next climb over is 10d R, and it finishes even farther right. Sep 9, 2014
Ross Exler
New York
Ross Exler   New York
I linked the two pitches, going straight up as described by Denis. No need to go left to the anchor and then back right. With my 70m rope, my partner was able to do a single rope rap from the top, with a few feet to spare. Jul 22, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10a/b PG13
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10a/b PG13
The Williams guidebook describes the first pitch as starting with 5.6 R face climbing "a few feet" left of the thin seam. Maybe I'm a sissy but we could not find any such thing. Ended up doing a LONG traverse in from the left(5.7ish) to avoid the apparent 5.8+/5.9 moves 15' off the deck. Once you get the .75 in the horizontal it's fun crimpy 5.9 into some more run out 5.7 to a horizontal and then the bolts. Pitch 2 is pumpy and fun. I took a fall onto the piton from the last lip. You could back it up if you have more endurance than me. Apr 29, 2013
Carl A
brooklyn, ny
Carl A   brooklyn, ny
Nobody commented on the beginning runout. A 5.9 move at 15+ feet off the deck could break your ankles, but is a lot of fun for sure. Did i miss some gear before the hand traverse? All and all a stellar route and mind blowing as my first clean gunks 5.10!

I too went too far right on the last roof and ended up pumped, brushing dried grass off crimps until I went down and got back left. Apr 18, 2013
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
It's all there, but a really tough on-sight climb. I hung at the roof - but loved it still! Oct 22, 2011
Michael G
Michael G  
Paul - it's a pin, not a bolt. Aug 22, 2011
I can't belive that a roof like that is 5.10b
Just don't get sucked into traversing far right at second overhand- i did (there is a well chalked up, good holds horizontal). Just a bit right of the bolt and reach. Aug 17, 2011
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
At 5'2", this shorty had no difficulty pulling the roof(s). Awesome climb. P1 is a bit scary, run out and slabby Aug 13, 2011
This route brings a smile to my face every time I do it. Just about as much fun as you can have on a one pitch route. Do it as one pitch, not at all necessary to break it up into two. After you get your gear in, in the middle of the huge overhangs, take a look around and soak in the great exposure. Don't be intimidated by the size of the overhang. Just imagine how good the holds have to be for a roof of that size to be 10b. Aug 11, 2008
This excellent route is even better when climbed as a single pitch. To do so, it's easier to take a straight line up to the roof rather than heading left to clip the bolt belay atop P1 and then traversing back right. Apr 13, 2006