Type: Trad, 2 pitches
GPS: 41.74928, -74.1749
FA: FA Dick Williams, Jim McCarthy 1964; FFA Henry Barber, John Stannard 1973; Variations Rich Romano 1981
Page Views: 79 total · 4/month
Shared By: Jeff Kitchen on Jun 17, 2024
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

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Description Suggest change

P1 Overgrown face right of Sticky Gate boulder. Wasp makes a better first pitch.

If coming from Wasp, move the belay 50 feet right along the GT Ledge, passing a large pine below Sticky Gate Direct and a few small bushy trees until below a vague blocky right facing corner capped by a roof blocking your view of the route with a pine tree grown against the rock. Belay from a .75/ #1 horizontal.

P2 Climb loose rock up a vague right facing corner, escaping left at the low roof, move up on jugs, traverse right and up until moving onto the face above becomes easy. Head right toward a hanging left facing corner. The original route (5.7) traversed further right here and up a face lost to lichen. A recommended Rich Romano variation (5.10b) pulls into the hanging left facing corner, climbs up until a horizontal, escaping right onto the face. Wander through thick lichen to the top of the cliff and belay off a tree. Descend Roger’s Escape Hatch. 

Location Suggest change

Climb the overgrown first pitch, right of the Sticly Gate direct boulder, or climb Wasp or Sticky Gate Direct and traverse right along the GT Ledge

Protection Suggest change

Rack to #2

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