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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: FA: Roy Kligfield & Robert Krumme - 1971
FFA: John Stannard - 1973
Page Views: 3,633 total, 51/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 24, 2012
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Because of Dick Williams' rather superlative description of the difficulty of this route, and after coming to expect 5.11 and up Gunks climbs to be extremely involved and generally terrifying, I'd kept away from it for a long time. However I was psyched to discover that Kligfield's is, for the most part, a good ol' mostly vertical pump with relatively straight-forward gear... reminiscent of a funky granite corner or something you'd find in Eldorado Canyon.

The line follows an arching crack system on the attractive pale yellow wall just left of Simple Suff. The crack begins about 20' up; start climbing well left of this using a large flake at the left edge of the wall to gain a mail slot for fingers and the first gear of the route. Move up off this to a shallow ledge, then continue back right to the start of the crack. Climb the crack to a tiny rooflet (the crack momentarily seams out here in a blank, left-facing corner) and set up to perform a difficult and possibly reachy move to another finger slot on the face out left. This is exciting and committing - suddenly there is no retreat and no feet. Don't panic; instead confidently load up the slot with a small cam or two, casually chalk up, exchange banter with your belayer and the gathering crowd, then lunge or dyno upwards for what appears from below to be nothing more than a sloper. You might be pleasantly surprised. Two more pulls gain a decent rest at a horizontal. Here the crack reappears and arches rightwards as the wall gently overhangs. After recovering, enter the sustained crux of liebacks, underclings, and good gear placements. It's a pumpy 20', but there is a chance to regroup midway with some modern sport climbing trickery and then things ease off just before the final steep bulge. Trivial climbing over this leads to a fixed pro & tat anchor.

I can't believe John Stannard freed this in 1973. Certainly 5.12 (or R) without cams?

Protection

A double or triple set to 0.5 Camalot. Nothing larger, and nothing micro. Double ropes or long runners are useful as the route wanders back and forth a bit.

Photos

SethG  
I think everything is fine, but I feel like I should tell you that today I led Bragg-Hatch and arrived at the Kligfield anchor. As I stepped down to the ledge with the fixed anchor I touched the right-facing flake into which the anchor is set, and a chunk of the flake snapped off in my right hand. This was a rock about the size of a dessert plate. The top nut from the anchor-- one of four pieces-- had been set behind this very piece of rock, so I guess the weakness of the flake was not obvious. I barely touched the rock and it snapped right off! Anyway I was able to set the nut again at roughly the same height so the anchor is IMO unaffected, and the rest of the rock seemed to be satisfactory. But if you are up there, please evaluate the anchor and the rock in which it is set for yourself. Oct 1, 2017
Dean Rosenthal
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dean Rosenthal   Poughkeepsie, NY
Unfortunately there is a fixed nut towards the end of the lieback section as of 10/28/2017. My partner whacked at it for a while but it wouldn't budge, might require a rubber mallet + nut tool to get out. Oct 29, 2017
Yotsuba
 
Yotsuba  
 
Some really good rest opportunities on this one! There was also a fair amount of fixed nuts. I was expecting the first crux move to be going into a mail slot hold based on the route photo and ended up jamming my fingers into the wall. To clarify, you're going FROM a mail slot hold, not into one... Apr 24, 2017
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.12a
In order to protect the difficult and reachy move into the mail slot below the crux on the face, you'll need RPs. It's an awesome route (felt hard for the grade) and it protects reasonably well. Sep 17, 2012
Nicola Masciandaro  
  5.11d
Super duper route. I enjoyed having a large cam on hand to place in pod at end of arching traverse. Piece in horizontal is easily back cleaned to eliminate drag. Sep 15, 2012