Mountain Project Logo

Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Russ Raffa and Eliot Williams, 1982
Page Views: 1,347 total · 18/month
Shared By: akline on Nov 3, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


17 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route feels like three boulder problems stacked on top of each other, with decent rests in between.

The first problem is moving into and through the initial 2-inch overhang. then you get some good holds. Then there is a thin move up to the next horizontal. From here you can move left and get a decent, but not a no-hands, rest. Third problem: move up into and through the right-leaning seam. There are a few marginal rp placements before the seam, and a better RP in the middle of the seam, but it's difficult to stop and place it on lead.

Rappel from chains at April Showers.

Location

Ten feet right of April Showers, below the left edge of a very shallow but distinct overhang

Protection

... not confidence-inspiring. Bring RPs. If the RPs at the base of the seam blow, you will need a good belayer to keep you off the deck.

Photos

- No Photos -
paulmadry
  5.11b/c PG13
paulmadry  
  5.11b/c PG13
I must say 5.11 for people 5.9 or shorter. If I had an extra 2 inches of reach I'd rate it 5.10+. I fell on a black alien placed in the seam. Jun 21, 2012
A Terray
San Diego, CA
  5.11c PG13
A Terray   San Diego, CA
  5.11c PG13
Hard 11 for shorties, for sure. 3 cruxes, all big reaches for me. Great climbing and great route! Apr 30, 2012
I've actually gotten some good slotted nuts on either side of the seam. They were also independent single nuts and not opposed, #2 and #3 walnuts if I remember correctly. Good thing, because standing up at that seam before you reach the lock is tough and definitely harder than 11a. Feb 21, 2012
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11 PG13
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11 PG13
Assuming the oppositional nuts in the shallow, thin horizontal hold, the fall at the crux is safe. I've taken the fall and they held, but again, not the most inspiring gear. Feb 21, 2012
I also find this harder than Comedy. It should be harder than April Showers, unless you count the bouldery start on that route, as the rest of it after that first move is 10b. As far as the gear goes on Golden Showers I had no complaints. In fact if you have doubles you can get bomber nuts on either side at the base of the crux seam, and if/when you fall you essentially decelerate coming down between the two pieces. I found the gear to be very safe and not at all an issue. Feb 20, 2012
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11 PG13
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11 PG13
I've always found this climb significantly harder than its similarly graded neighbors (April Showers, Comedy, Stand). I find all three cruxes (particularly the final one through the seam) reachy at 5'6". I'll second that the pro in places in not inspiring. Feb 16, 2012