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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad
FA: John Bragg, Ric Hatch
Page Views: 308 total · 3/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Climb the small, left-facing corner to the roof. Move up to a small horizontal, then traverse right to a rest. At that point, you can a) continue up the obvious right-facing corner to a tree or, b) climb to the obvious left-facing corner, go to its top and traverse left to the same tree; this was the original line.

Location

Locate Simple Suff, then go left and look for the arching corner/crack of Kligfield's Follies. The start of Bragg-Hatch is just to the left of the start of Kligfield's.

Protection

Micronuts and very small camming units

Photos

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SethG  
The crux nut I welded on this climb is still there as of December 2, 2017. You're welcome, America.

I tried the straight-up version today, up the right-facing corner just above the initial climbing. It is easier than the other corner and also nice. Dec 4, 2017
SethG  
This route is great. Technical and demanding. I worked really hard to get the crux nut and then immediately welded it by falling on it.

Nice moves and good gear if you are good with nuts.

Also after the crux I did the left-facing corner (the one on the right) and found it to be really good climbing, probably 5.9. Oct 1, 2017
paulmadry  
 
Don't do the left easier variation above and you get 3-4 stars. My rating is G-R. The first corner takes micronuts and it's a bitch to place them- especially when you see pointed rock that your butt would hit if you peel off. Placing the gear up to below the 4 feet right traverse 20 feet up is the crux, the rest is fine and enjoyable climbing. Next time I'll put bouldering pad over the above mentioned pointy rock. Did I say don't do the left side variation? Jul 10, 2011
bheller
SL UT
 
bheller   SL UT
 
The Williams guide suggests this route offers some brilliant climbing- that seems strange to me- this route has nearly nothing going for it. Great achievement for 1975, but it was clearly never even "good". Sep 18, 2010
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.10d PG13
The initial corner and some of the ceiling holds stay wet, days after having rained due to the vegetation and dirt in the upper corner holding water. In wet conditions the initial moves to get to the roof were more difficult than the traverse out right.

The crux is hanging on to place the gear in the initial corner and ceiling. The climbing gets easier as you move right to a good rest stance. This is followed by a good sequence of moves to get to the welcoming horizontal above.

The upper right facing corner is dirty, but the climbing is easy and provides the most logical line to the rappel tree. Oct 12, 2009

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