Avg: 1.9 from 22 votes
|Type:||Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Todd Swain, 1982|
|Page Views:||2,727 total · 21/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned User on Feb 13, 2011|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Both routes start from the same little platform nestled among pine trees. To get there, take the last trail up to the main cliff, as for Wasp. At the cliff, go right, under the big mound right of Wasp, then up the gully to the cliff. Keep on following a trail along the cliff, up and up, until you're forced to step right around some trees. You should be at the start of the route, at a small pedestal/clearing above some talus below.
P1: Climb up the easy fact of Sundance. Williams describes a distinct pitch starting at a large left-facing corner, and tells you to climb its arete and face up to the ledge at 5.1 (you'd then have to walk 15' right to get to the rappel tree above the pedestal).
P2: From the tree, make a few big easy moves to gain the rock behind. Move right, up a few moves, then an easy airy traverse left to gain a face below an overhang. Aim for the left side of the overhang, up into the left-facing corner it forms, then step right and up. Wander on up through easier rock and a final groove above to the trees.
Rappel from the Sundance tree to climber's right.
P2 was fairly dirty and had some loose rock when I last climbed it. The pitch wanders a lot as well - even with doubles, rope drag was considerable.