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Routes in k. The Slime Wall
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April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Back to the Future T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Climb and Punishment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Contradance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dirty Dancing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Drop Zone T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Golden Showers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pressure Drop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Techno-Suff T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Yellow Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Clune, Gruenberg, Freeman, Raffa |
| Page Views: | 656 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | akline on Aug 5, 2015 |
| Admins: | RJ B |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
Follow the seam to a stance below a blank-looking face (crux: lots of body tension, a mono pinch, a committing move and a cool head are required to stay off the deck), follow to overhang and clear it at a short right-facing corner. Pull the roofs to the right of Falled, and end at the bolted rap station.
Location
Start just left of the direct start to April Showers at a short left-facing block two feet off the ground and under a seam that about ten feet up makes a very long "S" shape. Also, 14 feet right of Falled on Account of Strain.
Protection
The gear in the initial horizontal seam is small, but good. Then you pull the crux moves above this gear while looking at a groundfall until you get to the jug after the crux, and plug good gear for the face up to the final roof moves, which are also a little spicy to protect. Standard rack plus a few small C3s.
Photos
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