Avg: 2 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 160 ft (48 m)|
|FA:||FFA John Stannard, Henry Barber 1973 (Variation 1 - Jordan Mills 1996)|
|Page Views:||1,056 total · 14/month|
|Shared By:||Daniel Affsprung on Apr 25, 2015|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start between The Stand and Wasp where a small right-leaning corner meets a small overhang. Climb straight up to good holds level with the overhang, see if you like the looks of the pins to your right, then move diagonally left to a good stance below another small overhang with a white splotch under it. Traverse right, meet the thin crack and climb it to easier terrain, continue up the second half of Wasp to the trees.
Variation 1 - Presumably goes straight into the thin crack where it begins, from the small overhang (5.12)
Tree anchor, same as Wasp. With a single 60m the tree to the right will leave you on the large mound to the right of Wasp, to walk off.