Avg: 2.2 from 31 votes
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy and John Rupley, 1954|
|Page Views:||2,407 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Orphaned User on Feb 13, 2011|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Both routes start from the same little platform nestled among pine trees. To get there, take the last trail up to the main cliff, as for Wasp. At the cliff, go right, under the big mound right of Wasp, then up the gully to the cliff. Keep on following a trail along the cliff, up and up, almost to its top, until you can take a short trail to the right away from the cliff. It should take you to the start of the route, at a small pedestal/clearing above some talus below.
P1: Climb up the easy face straight up to a tree with rappel slings; may not have as much protection as you'd like (5.3).
P2: From 10' or so right of the belay, make a big move or two leftwards to gain the face (you can also climb the corner/arete behind the belay, then traverse right). Keep climbing up and right under an overlap, and step up over it once you must. Move back left and up to gain a ledge with a small pine, then head up the white rock above, finishing on the left of two crack systems to the cliff top. Lots of finger-sized gear.
P1 and P2 can be combined, with attention to rope drag.
Rappel from a tree at the cliff top (2x 60m). It's possible to toprope the face to the right of the route, at about the same grade and enjoyability.