Avg: 2.2 from 20 votes
Routes in k. The Slime Wall
|April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a|
|Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c|
|Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13|
|Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13|
|Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R|
|Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13|
|Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c|
|Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13|
|Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R|
|Type:||Trad, 130 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Jim McCarthy and John Rupley, 1954|
|Page Views:||1,631 total, 20/month|
|Shared By:||JSH on Feb 13, 2011|
DescriptionSundance and its neighbor Moondance are two genuinely enjoyable routes on beautiful tight-white rock. They're relatively high on the cliff, at what can be a sunny warm spot on a calm winter day. And because they're fairly far down the cliff, you'll likely have them to yourself.
Both routes start from the same little platform nestled among pine trees. To get there, take the last trail up to the main cliff, as for Wasp. At the cliff, go right, under the big mound right of Wasp, then up the gully to the cliff. Keep on following a trail along the cliff, up and up, almost to its top, until you can take a short trail to the right away from the cliff. It should take you to the start of the route, at a small pedestal/clearing above some talus below.
P1: Climb up the easy face straight up to a tree with rappel slings; may not have as much protection as you'd like (5.3).
P2: From 10' or so right of the belay, make a big move or two leftwards to gain the face (you can also climb the corner/arete behind the belay, then traverse right). Keep climbing up and right under an overlap, and step up over it once you must. Move back left and up to gain a ledge with a small pine, then head up the white rock above, finishing on the left of two crack systems to the cliff top. Lots of finger-sized gear.
P1 and P2 can be combined, with attention to rope drag.
Rappel from a tree at the cliff top (2x 60m). It's possible to toprope the face to the right of the route, at about the same grade and enjoyability.