Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dick Williams, Jim McCarthy, John Reppy, 1964
Page Views: 3,980 total · 25/month
Shared By: J. Nickel on May 17, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


59 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures 2019 Details

Description

A short, strenuous classic with adequate protection.

P1: Start below a right-facing flake and climb 15' up to a horizontal, then traverse right about 20' to the left-facing corner. Follow the corner with creative protection to a small ledge below the crux. Climb a steep face on edges with poor feet to a 2' roof. Pull the roof to a short finger crack and cruise easier ground to the double-bolt anchor. 5.10c, 60'.

Direct start: Begin a couple feet to the left of the obvious left-facing corner that starts ~25' off the deck, 25' right of the start above. Climb straight up the steep face (unprotected crux) to a good stance just to the left of the left-facing corner. You can either get good pro here to your left (watch rope drag) or can traverse right to the corner for great pro (if you look for it) which is in line with the route. 5.11

A second pitch up to the GT Ledge is rarely done.

Location

The Slime Wall access trail, several minutes walk beyond the Boxcar Boulder on the carriage road, leads almost directly to the base of the route; Wasp is just to the right. This is about a twenty-minute walk from the Uberfall.

Protection

Gear to 2". RPs or equivalent and small cams will prove handy. There is a two-bolt anchor with chains at the top of the first pitch.

Photos

Excellent pitch. Not sure I'd give it 5.10c, though. (Not a Gunks 5.10+; graded 5.9 in Blue Book.) Feb 19, 2008
Had not done this route in few years. We did the direct start yesterday and it protects just fine with a blue alien. Despite the pro it is still a committing move just off of the deck. I have done this route many times over the years and it always seems hard. Many other routes get considerably easier when repeating, but not this one. Fun and challenging moves with good gear. Aug 11, 2008
paulmadry
  5.10b
paulmadry  
  5.10b
The "roof" crux is easy at the grade. Getting to the roof is "I hope these holds above are ok" and is the mental crux. Well, for the onsighters - the holds are ok. Sep 12, 2010
bheller
SL UT
bheller   SL UT
Its hilarious that William's guide suggests 3 (out of 3) stars for this route- not even close to deserving 3 stars! Beware of this guy's quality ratings on his own f.a.'s!:) Sep 18, 2010
kenr
  5.10c
kenr  
  5.10c
The moves are interesting, both the crux+roof sequence, and the less strenuous/difficult moves in the lower half. The crux (before the roof) is tricky to work out on-sight.

As we say so often in the Gunks, "If only this were longer". But at least the bolt anchor makes for a quick simple exit after the fun is over. Oct 7, 2015