Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Dick Williams, Jim McCarthy, John Reppy, 1964
Page Views: 4,805 total · 26/month
Shared By: J. Nickel on May 17, 2006
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

A short, strenuous classic with adequate protection.

P1: Start below a right-facing flake and climb 15' up to a horizontal, then traverse right about 20' to the left-facing corner. Follow the corner with creative protection to a small ledge below the crux. Climb a steep face on edges with poor feet to a 2' roof. Pull the roof to a short finger crack and cruise easier ground to the double-bolt anchor. 5.10c, 60'.

Direct start: Begin a couple feet to the left of the obvious left-facing corner that starts ~25' off the deck, 25' right of the start above. Climb straight up the steep face (unprotected crux) to a good stance just to the left of the left-facing corner. You can either get good pro here to your left (watch rope drag) or can traverse right to the corner for great pro (if you look for it) which is in line with the route. 5.11

A second pitch up to the GT Ledge is rarely done.

Location

The Slime Wall access trail, several minutes walk beyond the Boxcar Boulder on the carriage road, leads almost directly to the base of the route; Wasp is just to the right. This is about a twenty-minute walk from the Uberfall.

Protection

Gear to 2". RPs or equivalent and small cams will prove handy. There is a two-bolt anchor with chains at the top of the first pitch.

Photos