Avg: 2.7 from 74 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Dick Williams, Jim McCarthy, John Reppy, 1964|
|Page Views:||4,805 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||J. Nickel on May 17, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
P1: Start below a right-facing flake and climb 15' up to a horizontal, then traverse right about 20' to the left-facing corner. Follow the corner with creative protection to a small ledge below the crux. Climb a steep face on edges with poor feet to a 2' roof. Pull the roof to a short finger crack and cruise easier ground to the double-bolt anchor. 5.10c, 60'.
Direct start: Begin a couple feet to the left of the obvious left-facing corner that starts ~25' off the deck, 25' right of the start above. Climb straight up the steep face (unprotected crux) to a good stance just to the left of the left-facing corner. You can either get good pro here to your left (watch rope drag) or can traverse right to the corner for great pro (if you look for it) which is in line with the route. 5.11
A second pitch up to the GT Ledge is rarely done.