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Routes in k. The Slime Wall
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April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Back to the Future T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Climb and Punishment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Contradance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dirty Dancing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Drop Zone T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Golden Showers T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pressure Drop T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Techno-Suff T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Yellow Crack T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | 1963: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Jim McCarthy FFA: 1964: Rick Horn |
| Page Views: | 4,649 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Denis O'Connor on Jan 23, 2010 · Updates |
| Admins: | RJ B, Morgan Patterson |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling
Details
Please use bolted rappel anchors to descend whenever possible.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Description
This overhanging crack/chimney is hard to miss if you continue walking along the base of the cliff beyond the Seasons area (it might be hard to climb, too). It has some unique and strenuous moves, but is very well-protected (for the first pitch, anyway).
Begin at a short, steep finger crack in a right-facing corner, and work your way up into the bottomless chimney. Great jams can be had above your head, but the feet are insecure. Work your way up and right out of the chimney (crux), past a horizontal (another crux!), to a ledge with a fixed anchor, from which you can rap (50 feet).
Williams's book indicates two pitches above, but the second pitch is listed as 5.8 R/X, so I didn't try it. If anyone wants to add that info, I'll edit the description.
Begin at a short, steep finger crack in a right-facing corner, and work your way up into the bottomless chimney. Great jams can be had above your head, but the feet are insecure. Work your way up and right out of the chimney (crux), past a horizontal (another crux!), to a ledge with a fixed anchor, from which you can rap (50 feet).
Williams's book indicates two pitches above, but the second pitch is listed as 5.8 R/X, so I didn't try it. If anyone wants to add that info, I'll edit the description.
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