Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: 1963: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Jim McCarthy FFA: 1964: Rick Horn
Page Views: 3,737 total · 34/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on Jan 23, 2010 with updates from lucander
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Description

This overhanging crack/chimney is hard to miss if you continue walking along the base of the cliff beyond the Seasons area (it might be hard to climb, too). It has some unique and strenuous moves, but is very well-protected (for the first pitch, anyway).

Begin at a short, steep finger crack in a right-facing corner, and work your way up into the bottomless chimney. Great jams can be had above your head, but the feet are insecure. Work your way up and right out of the chimney (crux), past a horizontal (another crux!), to a ledge with a fixed anchor, from which you can rap (50 feet).

Williams's book indicates two pitches above, but the second pitch is listed as 5.8 R/X, so I didn't try it. If anyone wants to add that info, I'll edit the description.

Location

Generally, between the Seasons and the Slime Wall. Specifically, 45 right of Blistered Toe

Protection

The usual rack, but nothing small, and you might want an extra #2 camalot.

Photos

JSH

5.10
JSH    
5.10
This is one of those rare routes where leading it without a helmet might be the lesser of two evils. Jan 25, 2010
ericcr
 
ericcr  
 
atypical movement.

there is sometimes an anchor 40' up around a chockstone/pinch, but it comes and goes. there is a tree another 30' up dirty, easy climbing that also sometimes has an anchor. Nov 7, 2011
Anchor 40' up has been chopped...keep going to the tree. Nov 21, 2011
David Wilkerson
Rockville, MD
 
David Wilkerson   Rockville, MD
 
Save this one for a cold day! Jun 11, 2012
paulmadry
  5.10b/c
paulmadry  
  5.10b/c
I'd tape up. Jul 22, 2012
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10-
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.10-
Great route if you're into scrappy chimney-and-crack climbing!

I second the no-helmet suggestion, but I didn't find tape to be necessary; jams are all pretty smooth.

A single rack to 3 is sufficient and the anchor is in situ as of this post date. May 8, 2015
sara pax
western mass/traveling
  5.10a
sara pax   western mass/traveling
  5.10a
Best 10a at the gunks! (Or at least one of them...) Jul 25, 2015