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Routes in k. The Slime Wall
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April Showers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Drop Zone T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Pressure Drop T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R |
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Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft |
| FA: | 1963: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Jim McCarthy FFA: 1964: Rick Horn |
| Page Views: | 3,636 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Denis O'Connor on Jan 23, 2010 |
| Admins: | JSH |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area
Details
2018 PEREGRINE FALCON CLIMBING CLOSURE
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Due to nesting peregrine falcons, the section of the Trapps cliff between and including the routes Wisecrack (5.6) and Scary Area (5.12) is temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of March 19, 2018.
The section of Bonticou Crag known as THE SUNBOWL is also temporarily closed to rock climbing. This closure is in effect as of February 23, 2018.
Boulderering Closure: The section of Undercliff Road between and including the boulder problems Atlas (V10) and Yikes (V9) is temporarily closed to bouldering.
Help us to protect the fledging Peregrine Falcons. We ask that you:
• DO NOT use ascent trails or rappel routes that access this area.
• DO NOT use the trails at the top of the cliff in the closure area.
• DO NOT use the section of the cliff base climbers trail between these routes.
• PLEASE refrain from excessive noise making while in the vicinity of this closure.
Visit: mohonkpreserve.org/climb
Description
This overhanging crack/chimney is hard to miss if you continue walking along the base of the cliff beyond the Seasons area (it might be hard to climb, too). It has some unique and strenuous moves, but is very well-protected (for the first pitch, anyway).
Begin at a short, steep finger crack in a right-facing corner, and work your way up into the bottomless chimney. Great jams can be had above your head, but the feet are insecure. Work your way up and right out of the chimney (crux), past a horizontal (another crux!), to a ledge with a fixed anchor, from which you can rap (50 feet).
Williams's book indicates two pitches above, but the second pitch is listed as 5.8 R/X, so I didn't try it. If anyone wants to add that info, I'll edit the description.
Begin at a short, steep finger crack in a right-facing corner, and work your way up into the bottomless chimney. Great jams can be had above your head, but the feet are insecure. Work your way up and right out of the chimney (crux), past a horizontal (another crux!), to a ledge with a fixed anchor, from which you can rap (50 feet).
Williams's book indicates two pitches above, but the second pitch is listed as 5.8 R/X, so I didn't try it. If anyone wants to add that info, I'll edit the description.
there is sometimes an anchor 40' up around a chockstone/pinch, but it comes and goes. there is a tree another 30' up dirty, easy climbing that also sometimes has an anchor. Nov 7, 2011
Rockville, MD
New York
I second the no-helmet suggestion, but I didn't find tape to be necessary; jams are all pretty smooth.
A single rack to 3 is sufficient and the anchor is in situ as of this post date. May 8, 2015
western mass/traveling