Mountain Project Logo

Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: 1963: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Jim McCarthy FFA: 1964: Rick Horn
Page Views: 3,394 total, 36/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on Jan 23, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


42 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This overhanging crack/chimney is hard to miss if you continue walking along the base of the cliff beyond the Seasons area (it might be hard to climb, too). It has some unique and strenuous moves, but is very well-protected (for the first pitch, anyway).

Begin at a short, steep finger crack in a right-facing corner, and work your way up into the bottomless chimney. Great jams can be had above your head, but the feet are insecure. Work your way up and right out of the chimney (crux), past a horizontal (another crux!), to a ledge with a fixed anchor, from which you can rap (50 feet).

Williams's book indicates two pitches above, but the second pitch is listed as 5.8 R/X, so I didn't try it. If anyone wants to add that info, I'll edit the description.

Location

Generally, between the Seasons and the Slime Wall. Specifically, 45 right of Blistered Toe

Protection

The usual rack, but nothing small, and you might want an extra #2 camalot.

Photos

sara pax
western mass
  5.10a
sara pax   western mass
  5.10a
Best 10a at the gunks! (Or at least one of them...) Jul 25, 2015
David Aguasca!
New York
  5.10-
David Aguasca!   New York
  5.10-
Great route if you're into scrappy chimney-and-crack climbing!

I second the no-helmet suggestion, but I didn't find tape to be necessary; jams are all pretty smooth.

A single rack to 3 is sufficient and the anchor is in situ as of this post date. May 8, 2015
paulmadry
  5.10b/c
paulmadry  
  5.10b/c
I'd tape up. Jul 22, 2012
David Wilkerson
Rockville, MD
 
David Wilkerson   Rockville, MD
 
Save this one for a cold day! Jun 11, 2012
Anchor 40' up has been chopped...keep going to the tree. Nov 21, 2011
ericcr
 
ericcr  
 
atypical movement.

there is sometimes an anchor 40' up around a chockstone/pinch, but it comes and goes. there is a tree another 30' up dirty, easy climbing that also sometimes has an anchor. Nov 7, 2011
JSH

JSH    
This is one of those rare routes where leading it without a helmet might be the lesser of two evils. Jan 25, 2010