Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: FA: Ants Leemets, Olaf Soot, 1962 FFA: Bob Anderson, Henry Barber, 1972.
Page Views: 7,912 total · 51/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 23, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

113 Opinions

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This overhanging right-facing corner looks like a typical Gunks pitch, but the climbing is unusual because of the mandatory stemming.

Simple Suff is about a 21-min. walk from the Uberfall, or a 17-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road.

Start below the obvious large corner about 40 feet right of Kligfield's Follies. Climb easy rock to the base of the corner, then stem and face climb about 40 feet to a bolted anchor.


Standard rack.



  5.10a PG13
  5.10a PG13
great climbing, but the first and hardest crux move is just above a ledge, and the gear didn't seem 100%. part of this is probably due to me not climbing here much and not having a good idea of where the marginal/pretty good demarcation of how good the gear is when it is in weird rock.

superb stemming, i found myself hanging off my arms to shake my legs out. Jun 8, 2009
vanishing spy
vanishing spy  
This is the best climb to break the 5.10 grade at the Gunks: no wild roofs, no run out "easy" section, and there are solid stances (if you have strong calves) to place gear. There is nearly unlimited pro along the crack and occasionally outside of it as well. Small cams, black alien to yellow and 3CUs are most helpful, the crack also takes nuts. Leave your big stuff at home. Bolted, chained anchor with rap rings through the hangers. Sep 21, 2009
While I think that this is a great pitch, I'm not so sure that I would reccomend this as the best climb to break into 5.10 with. The gear at the start is not the greatest and a little tricky. I know of a few people who have messed up their ankles pretty good on the open moves. Once you get going the gear is excellent, but this type of climbing is a little atypical for the Gunks and may really throw some people off, seeming much harder than it actually is. Sep 28, 2009

  5.10a PG13
  5.10a PG13
FWIW, i thought this was harder and not as well protected as p-38, doubleissima, nosedive, and quite a few others. for somebody who is pretty good at placing gear, stemming, fairly fit, etc it would be OK for a first gunks 10, but i would say there are quite a few others that would be better.

cool route though, that henry was wheelin and dealin back in the day! Sep 28, 2009
Jim Med
Bellingham, WA
Jim Med   Bellingham, WA
I protected the small pod in the crack above the ledge at the start of the initial hard climbing with a #2 tricam- a 2.5 might be a better fit, but I felt the 2 was solid! Aug 1, 2011
Fun and challenging.

I thought gear was totally fine. Take a BD .75 and smaller with extra small cams and tiny wires and you're good to go.

So- what's a SUFF? Oct 26, 2013
Leo Hski  
"Suffering" Mar 21, 2014

Makes perfect sense. Jun 18, 2014
Poughkeepsie, NY
rgold   Poughkeepsie, NY
Way BITD, a "suff" was a big-wall aid climb (Yes, "suff" for "suffering"). Simple Suff was originally aided, but it falls rather short of being a big wall and the aid was easy, hence the "simple." One of the first ascenders, Ants Leemets, made the fifth ascent of the Nose with Dick Williams and Dave Dornan in 1966, four years after Simple Suff. May 3, 2015
Pawel Janowski
Pawel Janowski   WA
Never had such sore calf muscles as after climbing this one! :D Aug 10, 2015
Wes J
Kingston, NY
Wes J   Kingston, NY
About halfway up the route as you get to a bulging face, there's a "creative" no-hands rest. If you get the angle right on a finger rail and do a full on belly-flop on tot he face, that should be good enough to let you catch your breath mid-crux before finishing strong on the upper half of the route. Jul 9, 2018