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Routes in k. The Slime Wall

April Showers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Back to the Future (AKA JAP) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Blue Stink, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Bragg-Hatch T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb and Punishment T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Comedy In Three Acts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coprophagia T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drop Zone T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Falled on Account of Strain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Frustration Syndrome T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Golden Showers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Hooky T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Kligfield's Follies T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Last Frontier T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Moondance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pressure Drop T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Raindance T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Simple Suff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Stand, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Sticky Gate T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Sticky Gate with Direct finish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sundance T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tangled Up and Blue T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Techno-Suff TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
That Thing T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Wasp T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Dream T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Ants Lemeets, Dick Williams and Jiim McCarthy, 1966 FFA Rich Romano and Fred Yakulic, 1978
Page Views: 1,406 total · 17/month
Shared By: akline on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Start about 30 feet right of Falled on Account of Strain at a wide horizontal crack near the ground, under a roof about twenty feet up. Boulder up through a very thin face, using a small pinch/side-pull on the left, to reach the next horizontal. Move up the thin face (5.9R) until you reach good holds under the roof. Move left the the end of the roof and climb straight up (5.10) to a set of chains.

Protection [Suggest Change]

A small bouldering pad for the beginning is nice, then a standard gunks rack will do.

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akline
 
akline  
 
there is an alternate start to this route which goes at 5.11+. start three feet right of the original start where there are two very small crimpers on the face above the wide crack. move strait up the face to under the roof, then move left and join original route. Oct 24, 2011
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
I don't think the right-hand start is that much harder than the left (maybe a letter grade). However, they both seem harder than 11a! I think PG13 is a bit misleading. Once you stick the boulder problem (which has a reasonable landing even w/o a pad), it's a few easy (for the grade) moves to your first pro. Then good gear to the anchor. Feb 16, 2012
Wasn't the original start to this route done by leaning across off of a downed tree, so that you essentially started climbing at the thin stand-up? At least that is what it says in one of the older guide books. I have always done the "11d" start which is a few feet to the left of where you make the thin moves up to the overhang. It its really just one semi-dynamic boulder move that is very safe; either you make it or you come off with your feet 2 feet off flat ground. After this opening move the route is 10b. I have never really considered this as doing an 11, just a 5.10 with a hard start. The thin stand-up move is fairly well protected by a good piece that you can double up. It is still a spooky move, though, as only a good belay could keep you off the deck if you blow it. Feb 20, 2012
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
Yes, the original start used by the FA involved aiding off of a no-longer-existing tree. The "11d" start is to the right, not the left. It's certainly not sustained at 5.11, but it's got a couple 5.11 moves, so 5.11 it is. Feb 21, 2012
Jonathan,

Not sure what start to the right that you are referring to. If you go a few feet to the right of the move up to the overhang then you are on the start of Golden Showers, which is 11a. I have always done the hard standup move start which is to the left. I have always thought this move to be about 11d. Everyone that I have done the route with starts the route on the left. If there is another start squeezed in there somewhere I'll have to give it a go. Feb 21, 2012
Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11
David,

Check the grey Dick guide. It will sort out the starts in better detail than I can provide. The right start involves a hard crimp move which is rated 11d. Williams rates the standup start at 11a. I don't think there is that much disparity between the two starts. I also think they are both harder than 11a. Feb 23, 2012
paulmadry
  5.11- PG13
paulmadry  
  5.11- PG13
I would grade it 5.11- as the crux is right off the deck -- you have enough time to evaluate, and unlimited attempts. I remember doing something like a side pull with a high step. The rest seemed definitely less than 11. Jun 21, 2012

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