Avg: 2.4 from 54 votes
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Bonnie Prudden, Norton Smithe, 1953|
|Page Views:||5,575 total · 38/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Feb 27, 2006|
DescriptionOne of the better 5.4s in the Gunks; a long approach and undistinguished first pitch keep the crowds away.
This climb is at the far end of the Trapps, almost at the S-turn in the carriage road, about a 25-min. walk from the Uberfall.
Look for a buttress just to the right of the broken area that marks Roger's Escape Hatch. Scramble up to the right of this buttress (no trail here!) and then up behind it. Ledges lead to the top of this buttress, the start of the route.
P1: Climb easily up somewhat vegetated slabs aiming up and right for a huge tree. 5.0, 50'.
P2: Climb straight up clean, aesthetic white rock to the top. 5.4, 100'.
An easy descent down Rogers Escape Hatch is available - walk left a few hundred feet to a cairn. Some downclimbing is involved. Or you can rappel from the tree (awkward).