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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Bonnie Prudden, Norton Smithe, 1953
Page Views: 5,575 total · 38/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Feb 27, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

One of the better 5.4s in the Gunks; a long approach and undistinguished first pitch keep the crowds away.

This climb is at the far end of the Trapps, almost at the S-turn in the carriage road, about a 25-min. walk from the Uberfall.

Look for a buttress just to the right of the broken area that marks Roger's Escape Hatch. Scramble up to the right of this buttress (no trail here!) and then up behind it. Ledges lead to the top of this buttress, the start of the route.

P1: Climb easily up somewhat vegetated slabs aiming up and right for a huge tree. 5.0, 50'.

P2: Climb straight up clean, aesthetic white rock to the top. 5.4, 100'.

An easy descent down Rogers Escape Hatch is available - walk left a few hundred feet to a cairn. Some downclimbing is involved. Or you can rappel from the tree (awkward).

Protection

Standard Gunks rack.

Photos

MojoMonkey  
 
Combined with a scramble down Roger's Escape Hatch after and the longer walk out and back, plus the scramble to the start, this can be a great goal to give a newer climber a rewarding and likely unoccupied climbing sampler!

Just getting to the start can be exciting / scary for someone new to climbing though, so keep that in mind. Some talus scrambling, a pine needle covered ramp, then a somewhat exposed climb up onto the pinnacle to belay. Starts with a little step across from the pinnacle to the main cliff.

I'd agree that the gear might be tricky for a new leader up by the broken section of flakes. Jun 27, 2016
Ryan M Moore
Philadelphia, PA
  5.3 PG13
Ryan M Moore   Philadelphia, PA
  5.3 PG13
Second pitch is a very fun climb for the grade with a beautiful view. Crux was definitely the pine needles on the ledges. stepping out from the belay on the first pitch would probably be pretty fun for a first timer. Gave it PG13 because if you're leading 5.2 as your max it could be heady. Mar 15, 2016
Barrett Stetson  
  5.3
We had come down that end to avoid the crowds, did this climb and then did "A long walk for man, a short climb for mankind". Both were mostly easy climbs with one or two harder moves, and if I were grading them probably would've put them at the same grade. It's all subjective. If your short, a key hold just out of reach might make a climb feel harder, and if you're tall, being scrunched traversing under a roof might feel harder. P1: dirty, really easy but not much pro, just be careful not to slip of the pine needles. P2 was nice clean rock, good gear. Both pitches had a comfortable belay stance. Raps were in good condition, had doubles but did in two because of all of the trees and ledges. Apr 27, 2014
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
  5.2
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
  5.2
I guess the Gunks ratings are being modernized. Never thought this was harder than the book grade (5.2, Swain book) but also love it as a great climb for its grade. Really a great first lead and a great climb to bring new climbers on. Haven't led it in years, so maybe armed with the knowledge it's now considered a 5.4 I'll be disappointed. Mar 28, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Fun, easy mellow climb. As of October 2013 there are rings/slings on both trees. I thought P2 was trickier than the rating, but no harder than a 5.4 Glad we did it. Oct 19, 2013
kenr  
P0 - Inside at Emilio’s: Enter down into the Comici wine cellar. Find your way up to the living room. Exit out the right skylight. Above left side emerging from skylight is the pine tree platform at the bottom of P1.

We’ve climbed this lower starting pitch twice now: Great chance to make some climbing moves inside a cave. I wouldn’t make the walk out to Casa Emilio without doing it.

Difficulty? I don’t see how the easiest way I found thru this P0 each time could be harder than Gunks 5.3 -- my best guess for a difficulty grade would be Gunks 5.2. Length seemed less than 30 meters. I protected the first section (up to the “living room” level) with a threaded sling and a #2 Camalot (slightly larger would have been easier to place). Then I even remembered to place a directional in the “living room” to protect Sharon coming to the top of the first section. For the second climbing section (up out the “skylight”), I found a couple of smaller cam placements available.

How to get down into the Comici wine cellar?
Take the normal yellow-blazed and cairn-marked trail (which starts like 70 meters before the S-curve) up into the near part of Sleepy Hollow, but stop when it reaches the face for Creaky Joints + Almost Pure and Simple (white-ish face with some obvious cracks in its right half, with a small flat area just below it). Now instead of continuing around the right side of the Creaky Joints pillar/buttress following the marked trail toward Casablanca, go up on its left side: Leave the marked trail and go left from the flat area, gently a short ways (20 meters?); then turn and walk up the hill (some grass + dirt). See the cave to the right, and walk down to its bottom. That’s the start of P0.

Emilio Comici was a famous early climber in the Dolomites in northeast Italy. The Comici route on the north face of the Cima Grande di Lavaredo (Drei Zinnen) is the ultra-classic long "moderate" alpine route. Early Gunks climbers also did first ascents in the Dolomites, which are still popular classics: Fritz Wiessner the west ridge of the Sass d'Ortiga (in 1928); and Hans Kraus (with Gino Solda) the south-east face of the Pala Delle Masenade. Fritz + Hans together did the first ascent in the Gunks of "Emilio", just next to this "Casa". Aug 14, 2011
JSH

JSH    
Since I'm just coming back from a foot problem, and it's early season ... this really was worth the walk, or at least it fit the bill for the moment, and I'm glad we hit it. I'd do it again, if I were bringing someone new out.

P1 is indeed undistinguished, similar to Moon/Sundance. But it's over fast!

P2 is stellar for its grade (range) - great rock, great position, continuously interesting. It's a great option for a first lead. There's definitely a move or two on it, as well.

The rappel is hella awkward. Apr 14, 2011
derek nabozny
Norwalk, CT
  5.3
derek nabozny   Norwalk, CT
  5.3
Well worth the walk on a busy day. I felt that P2 was more like a 3+ May 24, 2010
Tim Schafstall  
  5.2
Guidebook rates this climb as 5.2. Everyone raves about it and although P2 is fun on cool rock, P1 is a vegetated easy slab where the only skill required is threading your way through trees. Worth doing if you are down that way, but IMHO not worth the walk down just for this route. FWIW, most people disagree with my impression of being worth the walk. Apr 22, 2008

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