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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ivan Rezucha and Don Lauber (1981)
Page Views: 2,004 total · 17/month
Shared By: eric larson on Jul 27, 2008 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

56 Opinions

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Start just 15 feet right of Wegetables I've Never Seen Before, just below a low tree at a left-leaning crack.

Climb the crack up to the overhang, aiming for the large horn. Move up past the horn on good, pumpy holds until you can traverse right on a series of smaller holds (crux). Once you reach the "thank god" stance (be creative!) work up on easier climbing to the ledge and tree belay/rap station.

Dick Williams describes this is having "thoughtful, pumpy moves"... and "strenuous to place gear." I couldn't agree more!


Far right end of the trapps... to access this area find a trail leading off the carriage road at the 'S' turn... follow traveled terrain towards the cliffs. Walk along up past the Dick's prick pinnacle and down the other side of the slope to reach Tennish


standard gunks rack up to #1 camalot


I would recommend bringing a couple micro nuts, they may prove useful in one spot. good route. Sep 22, 2013
Alec Orenstein
Gallup, NM
Alec Orenstein   Gallup, NM
I second what georgejessel said. I really liked the traverse--thoughtful and pumpy at the same time. Very good gear the whole way, but none of the placements are obvious. Jun 3, 2013
I found this route significantly harder than Wegetables and Restless Virgins. It's technical and definitely PG. If this is 10c, Wegetable is 9. That said, the moves are very high quality and the last traverse is just lovely. May 21, 2013
Straightforward to set up a top-rope on this after doing Wegetables (10a).

I think one key move below the main overhang might be pretty height related: At 169.5cm / 5ft7in I felt I could just barely "walk" my fingers onto the obvious rock horn. May 15, 2013
bheller   SL UT
I agree with Williams- he got this one right- fun little climb, and indeed interesting. Sep 18, 2010