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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Steve Wunsch and Kevin Bein, 1974
Page Views: 7,392 total, 70/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Apr 3, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


98 Opinions

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Description

Wegetables is in Sleepy Hollow, at the very far end of the Trapps. Approach by heading straight into the Hollow where the carriage road U-turns right, wandering into the woods for 5 minutes, then heading left up to the cliff. Look for a short-ish wall with a big left-facing corner; Wegetables is left of that, and easily identified by the three overhangs at its top.

Start at a colorful face with a crack, capped by a set of three overhangs.

Follow the thin crack up to a stance, or start by climbing a short corner system just right of this, and then face climb out left and up to a good stance. From the stance, follow a crack and flakes over two overhangs to a final roof and a ledge that is ten feet above. One can belay here and then do the second pitch or belay and then simply walk off left; there is also a rap anchor 20' right at a tree.

Protection

Small camming units and nuts for the lower crux, a few small to medium cams for the roof system.
Wes John-Alder
Brooklyn, New York
 
Wes John-Alder   Brooklyn, New York
 
I climbed this today, and I found a solid red x4, green c3, and a small stopper to protect the initial high step.

Also, the spot where you put the green c3 has what looks like epoxy to reinforce the crack.

Once you get above the high step, the gear is G. Sep 27, 2015
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10a
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10a
There is a good TR about 10' right of Wegetables that's fun to mess around on May 27, 2014
Sardocius
Old Lyme, CT
Sardocius   Old Lyme, CT
I placed a ballnut at the opening crux, downclimbed, and did a bounce test and it popped right out despite it being a good placement. Be weary of the ballnut on this climb! Found a nut and microcam to be the best on the bounce. Otherwise, amazing climb! Oct 21, 2013
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.10a
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.10a
This climb is "G" if you have small wires and micro C3s(or equivalent) to protect the first 10 or 15 ft. After that the climbing is a straightforward but pumpy romp. Too bad you don't have to use the crack more, the one necessary finger-lock is indeed memorable! May 29, 2013
kenr  
Straightforward to set up a top-rope on Tennish Anyone (10c with some interesting moves) after doing Wegetables. May 15, 2013
ericcr
  5.10a PG13
ericcr  
  5.10a PG13
the opening moves are pretty safe with a good spot, as well. if your belayer stands on top of the block near the base, their hands are at your knees when you start that sequence. Sep 2, 2011
I led this today for the first time in many years. It was as fun as I had remembered. The gear down low isn't really that bad . You can get a good micro nut in the thin seam while still on great holds. Then after doing one more move you get a bomber cam or nut placement up to the right. I used a green alien today, but if I remember corrrectly a good nut goes there is well. Either placement is bomber. From there the gear is G. Jul 16, 2011
Crossing
Breinigsville, PA
 
Crossing   Breinigsville, PA
 
This route is really height-dependent, if you are tall and lanky its pretty mellow. As everybody has said the gear down low isn't ideal, but the gear afterwards is great. Sep 16, 2010
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
Though the rest of the climb's protection is straightforward, gear at the bottom is very thin and difficult to get. Found a #2 peanut, #2 HB brassy real low in the crack, with a #4 BD stopper a little higher up. A 0 TCU is too big. Ballnuts would help. There's a stance to work for this gear from. Good climb other than the tricky gear low. Aug 15, 2010
The opening moves of this climb before the high step to the flake can be protected with a green black diamond c3 and green wild country micronut. Jun 1, 2010
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
 
In a week long trip that I did to the Gunks this was my favorite route. Wegetables has two distinctly different cruxes, solid pro through the roofs, and engaging climbing through out it's entirety. No pulling a crux roof and cruising 5.3 the rest of the way. This climb is full value. Mar 27, 2010