Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dick Williams, Roy Kligfield, 1973
Page Views: 4,909 total · 32/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on May 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

P1: About 30' right of the huge right-facing corner, climb up past a left-facing flake to a small overhang. Up and slightly left to a small right-facing corner, then diagonal up right to the overhang, heading for the obvious flake. Clear the overhang at the flake (long reach) then diagonal up left to a bolted belay/rap station. 5.9, 90'.

This pitch used to be called 5.8+ but is 5.9 in the latest Williams guide. I'd say it's easier than that if you're 5'9", and harder than that if you're 5'6".

P2: Head up slightly right to a ledge. Then up trending left past a short left-facing corner. 5.5, 100'.

Protection

Standard rack

Location

This route is located at the far end of the Trapps, just before the S-turn in the carriage road where one exits for Sleepy Hollow. There is a yellow-blazed tree to mark the faint trail, which initially heads up a short, steep embankment. Follow blazes and cairns from there to a very large block, passing it on the right. Head left at the base of the cliff. The first pitch can be rappelled with one 60m rope. From the top of the 2nd pitch, walk left and rappel Casa Emilio, or walk further and descend Roger's Escape Hatch.
GoBotRocker
Spfld, Ma
GoBotRocker   Spfld, Ma
In the photo of the girl placing the #1 Camalot (what is it with # 1 Camalots), I chose to use a smaller cam and moved it to the right as far as I could, hoping it would be less likely to rip out due to the flex in the flake...

I'm 5'8" and I was able to reach the hold without performing any magic tricks.

Otherwise a great roof climb, especially when the feet cut loose.

While you're there, Casa Emilio at 5.4 has a nice top pitch; great for new leaders. Jul 4, 2006
Zach Allen
  5.8
Zach Allen  
  5.8
Great route on a beautiful part of the cliff. I'm 5'6" and didn't find the difficulty to be height dependent. Nov 20, 2006
Great first pitch. Don't bother with the second pitch even though Williams gives it a thumbs up. It's got little to offer in terms of movement and the lichen is still pretty thick. Apr 23, 2007
Fat Paul
Central, NJ
Fat Paul   Central, NJ
Concur with Bob H. that 2nd pitch has little to offer. One of the worst pitches I have done at the Gunks. Plenty of lichen and pine needles. Loose block just above the nice ledge about a third of the way up. Nov 9, 2009
I can't believe that casketizer flake at the crux is still there. It gave me the shivers cranking on it 30 years ago. Jan 17, 2010
Kalil Oldham
Brooklyn, NY
 
Kalil Oldham   Brooklyn, NY
 
I liked the climb, but the pins and the flake are indeed sketchy. While standing on the flexing flake (protected from the back with a "bomber" number 3 C4), I also felt the best horizontal over the roof wiggling. Seems like there's a ton of choss under the roof as well. Then again, it's probably been that way for a long time. Climb on! Oct 22, 2011
Simon Thompson
New Paltz, NY
  5.9-
Simon Thompson   New Paltz, NY
  5.9-
Another one of those astounding Gunks crux flakes! Apr 27, 2013
Byron Igoe  
 
The little pine tree with slings seems half dead. There's a tricam as backup, but the rappel from P1 still felt sketchy. Oct 13, 2013
akline
  5.9 R
akline  
  5.9 R
i can't believe the girl in the photo put a cam behind that flake and it is still there! the climbing is not hard, but the protection in the roofs is sketchy, those flakes definitely move and the pitons that are in place to protect them are bad, at best. i backed up the first pitch rappel tree with a tricam on 5/20/14 because that tree is certainly half alive. May 22, 2014
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.9 R
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.9 R
Between the questionable flakes and the rotten pin pulling this roof is a bit of a sketchfest ... but otherwise a good time ... the guy that mentioned placing a cam to the right may be onto something, the flake does get more solid that way. People have been yarding on those holds for years and they are still there, but man I would not want to take a fall on any of that gear. Oct 26, 2014
Frank F
Bend, OR
Frank F   Bend, OR
I'm 5'4" and found the reach to the decent holds to be looong. There are some small intermediate holds, but they're a red herring. I found the key was to really get my feet high before moving over. Nov 3, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
As of 8/9/15 beware of the hornet's nest in the left side, orange face below the roof. Fun climb. Looooonnnnggg reach for this 5'2" shortie. Very fun. A bit run out on the easier climbing below the roof. Aug 10, 2015
sevans  
As of today (10/27/15) the fixed pin under the roof is no longer there. It pulled from rope tension while I was lowering a climber. A black Alien goes in nicely behind the squareish block the pin was in. Oct 27, 2015