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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Slime World T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Marguerite Baumann and Bill Kemsley
Page Views: 579 total · 11/month
Shared By: dragons on Jun 28, 2014
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

P1. Start just left of the open book, and climb up towards several clean white/orange overhangs, staying on the left face (which is regrettably not so clean). Move left as the overhangs on the right lean out over the left face. There are a lot of good holds and pro here.

According to the grey Dick Williams, there is white rock with a wide crack in it off to the right somewhere here, and you're supposed to move up a bit right on it. I did not see this, and eventually wound up diagonaling left. This put me in lichen territory with poor holds covered in grassy dirty tussocks. I think with a good cleaning this section could be fun. Be careful, there is at least one brick-sized loose block on the route near the top.

Once you clear the grass and dirt, you'll get to a ledge covered in pine needles. I aimed for the closest tree and pulled up on that to top out.

P2. According to Dick Williams, this pitch is not worthwhile. He has some brief instructions - see the book if you are interested. I didn't do this pitch.

Location

The climb starts on the face just left of an open book which is about 20 feet right of "Crack of Despondency". There were two rap stations at 100 ft: one to the left (probably for "Crack of Despondency") and one to the right.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack. According to the grey Dick Williams, a blue cam might help, but I never used it.

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