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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Don Lauber, Annie O'Neill, 1981
Page Views: 222 total, 2/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on Sep 22, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Climb into a shallow left-facing corner and go over a small roof (crux) to a ledge. Follow the continuation of the crack and then head right to the large, left-facing corner and belay.

The current guide notes that there is a rappel station (bushes, etc) in the large corner at the finish. Take a look at what's there, and if you are feeling really reckless go ahead and use it.

Location

At the S turn in the carriage road at the end of the Trapps, head up into the woods and locate the Dick's Prick pinnacle. Go right and down the hill about 200 feet or so. There is a large, right-facing corner with a detached block near by. The start is about 20-30 feet left.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos

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gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Crux is right off the ground. Seemed well protected. We did not rap off the bush in the corner. We traversed left to the Tennish Anyone rap. We backed up the tree while toproping Tennish, but, eventually rapped off without a backup. Reckless? I hope not! Oct 23, 2012
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
Annie and I did Foot Loose and Fancy Free one after the other, but not, I think, the same day, given that Don Lauber was also on the FA of Foot Loose but not of Fancy Free. The next year, and before these two routes were in a guidebook, Hugh Herr did did a 5.11 route at Sky Top called Footloose and Fancy Free. This was apparently very accurately named, because Hugh's artifical foot fell off on one attempt. Apr 11, 2010
Optimistic
New Paltz
 
Optimistic   New Paltz
 
I thought this was a nice little pitch. Pro is quite good. While not essential, a 3.5 camalot (new 3 and old 4 don't work, a new #4 probably would) was an extra bit of truck-ness below the crux. As noted in main description, traversing over to Tennish Anyone anchor is a great idea. The Tennish Anyone belay tree looks a little tired: I was glad to have a #2 Camalot to back it up so we could TR Tennish Anyone, which is a truly superb little route. Apr 5, 2010