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Footloose

5.8, Trad,  Avg: 2.1 from 36 votes
FA: Ivan Rezucha, Don Lauber, Annie O'Neill, 1981
New York > Gunks > Trapps > l. Sleepy Hollow

Description

Climb into a shallow left-facing corner and go over a small roof (crux) to a ledge. Follow the continuation of the crack and then head right to the large, left-facing corner and belay.

Tat anchor replaced old sketchy bush anchor.

Location

At the S turn in the carriage road at the end of the Trapps, head up into the woods and locate the Dick's Prick pinnacle. Go right and down the hill about 200 feet or so. There is a large, right-facing corner with a detached block near by. The start is about 20-30 feet left.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Footloose follows the rope in the center of the picture. Boron destroyer is just to the right and the Fancy free corner is way on the right.
[Hide Photo] Footloose follows the rope in the center of the picture. Boron destroyer is just to the right and the Fancy free corner is way on the right.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Optimistic
New Paltz
 
[Hide Comment] I thought this was a nice little pitch. Pro is quite good. While not essential, a 3.5 camalot (new 3 and old 4 don't work, a new #4 probably would) was an extra bit of truck-ness below the crux. As noted in main description, traversing over to Tennish Anyone anchor is a great idea. The Tennish Anyone belay tree looks a little tired: I was glad to have a #2 Camalot to back it up so we could TR Tennish Anyone, which is a truly superb little route. Apr 5, 2010
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] Annie and I did Foot Loose and Fancy Free one after the other, but not, I think, the same day, given that Don Lauber was also on the FA of Foot Loose but not of Fancy Free. The next year, and before these two routes were in a guidebook, Hugh Herr did did a 5.11 route at Sky Top called Footloose and Fancy Free. This was apparently very accurately named, because Hugh's artifical foot fell off on one attempt. Apr 11, 2010
Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] Crux is right off the ground. Seemed well protected. We did not rap off the bush in the corner. We traversed left to the Tennish Anyone rap. We backed up the tree while toproping Tennish, but, eventually rapped off without a backup. Reckless? I hope not! Oct 23, 2012
Mike Hazard
Ballston Lake, NY
 
[Hide Comment] Don't bother bringing anything bigger than a #3 - plenty of gear anywhere you want it. Apr 1, 2018
The Weavers
High Falls NY
[Hide Comment] Great well protected (5.8) that is rarely busy. Sep 7, 2021
Reuben W
New York, NY
[Hide Comment] Heads up that the tat anchor at the top is no longer in place as of 9/10/22. Unsure why, but the slings/webbing and hex were stripped. Can traverse left to Tennish bolts instead. Sep 10, 2022