Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: TR: Frank Minunni, 1987. Lead: Andy Salo, 2018
Page Views: 349 total · 19/month
Shared By: Eric Marx on Oct 16, 2022
Admins: Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A very underrated, and unpopular line in Sleepy Hollow, that hides high quality and sustained climbing. It gets a single star in the Gunksapp. It climbs the unappealing-looking face just right of Meat-By Products and left of Art's Route. Start up the large loose flakes to a stance. Break right through a seam in a left-facing corner and encounter the unique, sloper-bulge crux. From there, climb straight up multiple stacked cruxes separated by juggy, but sustained rests. Manage the pump until you're crunching through the final 10 feet of lichen. 

Location Suggest change

Between Meat By-Products and Art's Route.

Protection Suggest change

You can drop a TR off the rappel tree above Meat By-Products. A .5 is good for a directional. As a headpoint; good gear, except for after the bulge crux where a blue ballnut in an uninspiring flake protects another crux to a good horizontal. Falling here would likely land you on or close to the ground if the ballnut(or flake) ripped.

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