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Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow

10,000 Restless Virgins T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Almost Pure and Simple T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Art's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bone Hard T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R
Boron Destroyer T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Casa Emilio T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Casablanca T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Casanova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Counterstrike T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crack of Despondency T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Devil Made Me Do It, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Dick's Prick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Emilietta T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Emilio T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fancy Free T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Footloose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four-Foot Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Future Shock T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Headless Horseman T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Independent Hangover T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Lone Ranger, The T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Meat By-Products T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pfui Teufel T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Ranger's Revenge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Roger's Escape Hatch T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Tennish Anyone? T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trigger Point T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
V.D. T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Darrow Kirkpatrick and Frank Minunni, 1986
Page Views: 533 total, 20/month
Shared By: Simon Thompson on Sep 22, 2015 with updates
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the beautiful sequencey face crimps about 30' left of Art's Route's corner. Climb the face to the rusty bolt and pull several crux moves to, into, and out of the shallow open book. The guidebook describes going left to a crack from here but due to lichen and a nearby tree it is now much more pleasant to continue climbing straight up from the crux to the top of the pinnacle.

Location

About 30' left of Art's Route. Looks for face crimps and sharp boulders below them.

You can access the route for TRing by soloing up the short 5.3 in the gully up the hill to the left and scrambling around onto the top of Tom's Thumb OR (recommended) you can lead Art's Route. There is a good spot above Future Shock for a gear anchor. Rappel Art's Route' to get down.

Protection

A green alien backs up the ugly bolt, and a questionable blue ball nut above that. Not sure how the upper part protects.

Photos

lostlazy
Hoboken, NJ
lostlazy   Hoboken, NJ
As of 10/29/16 a new shiny bolt has replaced (I guess ?) the old bolt. Did this on TR, and can't possibly see a solution on lead any less than R/X, bolt or not. It's for a person far bolder than I... Nov 1, 2016
frank minunni
Las Vegas, NV
frank minunni   Las Vegas, NV
Hi Nick

That bolt is still there? I put that bolt in when Darrow and I put in the first ascent. It was shitty then, it must be horrible now!

Kevin Bein and I did the FA on the direct on TR. We didn't have it as that hard, but who knows. It was definitely harder than the original line which got pushed that way because there was gear to be had. Oct 12, 2015
Nicolas Falacci
Pasadena, CA
 
Nicolas Falacci   Pasadena, CA
 
I worked out the direct finish on TR and it's close to 5.12c/d. However, I didn't see much in the way of gear to protect the direct finish. Oct 8, 2015