Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Art Gran, Rittner Walling, 1959
Page Views: 5,121 total · 33/month
Shared By: John Peterson on Mar 15, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

105 Opinions

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An excellent pitch that is atypical for the Gunks - more subtle and balancy than usual.

Look for a right-slanting crack system that starts about 55' left of The Spring (P1).

P1: Climb up and right, then left through a small overhang, up the crack, and finish with a funky rightward traverse to a fixed anchor that deposits you over The Winter (or continue to the bolted anchor on the huge ledge up and right) 5.8, 80'.

P2: If you keep going, work back left and skirt the roof above on the left. Then climb somewhat vegetated rock to the GT Ledge. 5.6, 100'.


The Bold-Ville access trail is about a 19-min. walk from the Uberfall, and a 15-min. walk from where the East Trapps Connector Trail meets the carriage road. This is just past a boulder with bouldering routes on it. Bold-Ville starts about 55' left of The Spring, a left-facing corner with a spring at its base. Bold-Ville is about 170' right of Double Crack.


Standard Gunks rack


John Ely
John Ely   DC
Be sure not to miss the wildly overhanging 5.6+ hand rail on the second pitch. Jan 31, 2009
Regarding pitch 1: If you follow the curving crack to its end and then go straight up to the anchor for The Winter, you've actually gone off route. Dick Williams' description calls for you to leave the crack and go through the little roof at its first break, which was the crux for me.

And I agree, the second pitch is great, although it is pretty short, and then you end up at the anchor above The Nose, which consists of two old angle pitons. People rap from this anchor every day but it didn't give me a good feeling, and ascending up to the GT ledge or the top from this point is a filthy bushwhack. Oct 24, 2009
Jersey City, NJ
BrianRH   Jersey City, NJ
As Seth notes, the actual route escapes from the traverse at the first break in the rightward curving roof under which you traverse. Slightly more challenging than going to the chains.
Fantastic 2nd pitch. Linked both pitches with with double ropes but had used my bigger cams on the first pitch and struggled to find inspiring placements for the small gear among the hollow sounding flakes and loose rocks. Save the #3 Camalot for the traverse. Nov 13, 2012
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
I actually did what Seth was referring to and went all the way to The Winter. I realized the mistake and did a traverse left off the Winter anchor on the small holds to the large ledge. Only worked out OK because I had a Revolver biner or the drag would've been heinous.

On P2 I took it all the way to the GT ledge. Fun pitch until after the roof...then it's adventure climbing (I pulled out an old piton by hand!). If you're going to do this and only have one rope, take it ALL the way to the top, bring up your partner, then walk straight back through the woods till you hit the trail. Turn left and walk back a ways until you can see a dirty slope down to the GT ledge...this is basically the top of the Yellow Wall area. From here you can find the Ursula or High E raps. With two ropes, there is a rap station on the GT ledge around the top of Boldville and one back in the corner to the left. Sep 2, 2014
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Don't get sucked into the corner! Much better if you stay outside the corner and work your way across the slab. Oct 23, 2014
Not a one-move wonder. Fun sustained 5.8. Loads of fun for leader and follower with classic gunks climbing.

>>>>>>>GEAR BETA<<<<<<<
Extra hand-sized cams / nuts handy. Apr 18, 2016
AJ W.   PA
P1. Cool climb. Great gear from the start. Gblauer is spot on.

If you're looking for a crack climb in the grade I would suggest Eastertime Too in the Nears though. There didn't seem to be much crack on this crack climb.

Anchor gear beta...save a 1 or 2 to back up the anchor, folks. The shared slings (with Winter) are really only taut on the nut above, not around the rock. And the rock itself seems ready to give.

P2 is reminiscent of Moonlight's 2nd pitch. We traversed left after the bulge to anchors. We rappelled from there with a 70 but a 60 will do too. May 18, 2016
artem Vasilyev
New York, NY
artem Vasilyev   New York, NY
Didn't do the second pitch - didn't seem like it was worth it with all of the cool climbing the seasons wall has to offer.

Fun 5.8 - would highly recommend as a warmup. Dec 7, 2017