Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Raffa & Clune, 1983
Page Views: 3,525 total · 38/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Feb 16, 2013
Admins: RJ B

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Location

At a very shallow corner in between No Man's Land and Yellow Wall, just beneath the large triangle point in the roof above.

Description

Wild and scary! The intimidating last roof requires either a #4 Friend or Camalot in a shallow horizontal. Big moves, big falls, and lots of fun.

Climb a shallow dihedral to blocks. Angle right then back left over some flakes and blocks to a good stance in an alcove. Head up the right-facing corner, exiting left to the face for a few feet. At a good stance, traverse up and right, aiming for the narrow part of the large tiers. Pull over the first roof, then hand traverse left to a small bend. Pull the second roof, place some gear, and make powerful moves through the final, pointy roof.

To descend, rap or head left to No Man's Land.

Protection

Small nuts to #2 Camalot (or #4 Friend for the crux). Mostly finger-sized pieces. Many shoulder or double slings.

For years this had an anchor just above the crux. In 2012, this anchor was missing, necessitating a traverse to No Man's Land. Rope drag was hell.

Photos