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Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons

48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Man's Land T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prick, The T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Scary Area T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Tiers of Fear T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ventre de Boeuf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wrath of the Lamb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A5 R
Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Raffa & Clune, 1983
Page Views: 2,228 total, 38/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Feb 16, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Location

At a very shallow corner in between No Man's Land and Yellow Wall, just beneath the large triangle point in the roof above.

Description

Wild and scary! Rarely climbed because of the intimidating, poorly protected last roof, which is supposed to take either a #4 Friend in a very shallow horizontal (nothing else fits) or small wires. Big moves, big falls, and lots of fun.

Climb a shallow dihedral to blocks. Angle right then back left over some flakes and blocks to a good stance in an alcove. Head up the right-facing corner, exiting left to the face for a few feet. At a good stance, traverse up and right, aiming for the narrow part of the large tiers. Pull over the first roof, then hand traverse left to a small bend. Pull the second roof, place some gear if you can find it, and make powerful moves through the final, pointy roof.

To descend, rap or head left to No Man's Land.

Protection

Small nuts to #2 Camalot (or #4 Friend for the crux). Mostly finger-sized pieces. Many shoulder or double slings.

For years this had an anchor just above the crux. In 2012, this anchor was missing, necessitating a traverse to No Man's Land. Rope drag was hell.

Photos

Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.12a
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.12a
The fixed anchor on this thing can really using a serious makeover/redoing! Will probably replace it soon when we get a hotter day. May 13, 2017
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
 
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
 
#4 Camalot fits perfectly to protect the final moves. Apr 19, 2016
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
 
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
 
The horizontals in the roof are very shallow. The lobes on a Camalot stick out too far past the head when they are compressed to fit. A #4 Friend supposedly doesn't have this problem. I never tried the Friend since I don't own one, and was never able to get any nuts in anywhere. Double up on the cams at the end of the left-ward traverse and then gun it to the anchor above the pointy roof. You'll need a good belayer: if you blow it and there's too much slack out you could hit the slab below the tiers. Nov 20, 2014
bheller
SL UT
  5.12 PG13
bheller   SL UT
  5.12 PG13
Are you sure a new BD cam won't fit? Apr 27, 2013