Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Raffa & Clune, 1983
Page Views: 2,626 total · 36/month
Shared By: Sean Nelb on Feb 16, 2013
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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At a very shallow corner in between No Man's Land and Yellow Wall, just beneath the large triangle point in the roof above.


Wild and scary! Rarely climbed because of the intimidating, poorly protected last roof, which is supposed to take either a #4 Friend in a very shallow horizontal (nothing else fits) or small wires. Big moves, big falls, and lots of fun.

Climb a shallow dihedral to blocks. Angle right then back left over some flakes and blocks to a good stance in an alcove. Head up the right-facing corner, exiting left to the face for a few feet. At a good stance, traverse up and right, aiming for the narrow part of the large tiers. Pull over the first roof, then hand traverse left to a small bend. Pull the second roof, place some gear if you can find it, and make powerful moves through the final, pointy roof.

To descend, rap or head left to No Man's Land.


Small nuts to #2 Camalot (or #4 Friend for the crux). Mostly finger-sized pieces. Many shoulder or double slings.

For years this had an anchor just above the crux. In 2012, this anchor was missing, necessitating a traverse to No Man's Land. Rope drag was hell.


  5.12 PG13
bheller   SL UT
  5.12 PG13
Are you sure a new BD cam won't fit? Apr 27, 2013
Sean Nelb
Indian Creek
Sean Nelb   Indian Creek
The horizontals in the roof are very shallow. The lobes on a Camalot stick out too far past the head when they are compressed to fit. A #4 Friend supposedly doesn't have this problem. I never tried the Friend since I don't own one, and was never able to get any nuts in anywhere. Double up on the cams at the end of the left-ward traverse and then gun it to the anchor above the pointy roof. You'll need a good belayer: if you blow it and there's too much slack out you could hit the slab below the tiers. Nov 20, 2014
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
#4 Camalot fits perfectly to protect the final moves. Apr 19, 2016
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
The fixed anchor on this thing can really use a serious makeover/redoing! May 13, 2017
Dean Rosenthal
Poughkeepsie, NY
Dean Rosenthal   Poughkeepsie, NY
I've whipped on both the BD #4 and the Friend, and both held (though the friend is more confidence inspiring). There is also bomb gear a couple feet below, and nothing but air to hit if the #4 rips. Oct 22, 2018