No Man's Land
Avg: 3.3 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft|
|FA:||FA: Dick Williams & Art Gran - 1964FFA: John Stannard & Ajax Green - 1973|
|Page Views:||5,268 total · 36/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006|
DescriptionThis is a great route just left of The Yellow Wall. I think it serves as a good stepping stone to Carbs and Caffeine (though few agree with me). Carbs and Caffeine is in turn a good stepping stone to The Yellow Wall.
With a 70-meter cord you can lower to the ground from the fixed anchor, and you could easily do it in one pitch, but I recommend 4th-classing it up to a ledge with a tree and belaying there. 5.0, 40'.
Climb up past a large block just above the belay, and then continue up corners (the path is obvious once you embark). Eventually you will step left and do a 5.10 move to get established below the big roof. Fingertip traverse right (sew the horizontal up with 0 TCU's and other small gear) and pull the roof at a thin crack. This is the crux and can be spooky as it is a bit right from your gear. I've heard that a red ballnut will slot in the crack in the roof, and small wires could be placed as well, but it's very pumpy here. Pull the roof on some crimps, and continue up sustained 5.10 climbing (and better gear) to the bolted anchor.