Avg: 3.4 from 38 votes
|Type:||Trad, 115 ft (35 m)|
|FA:||FA: Dick Williams & Art Gran - 1964FFA: John Stannard & Ajax Green - 1973|
|Page Views:||7,862 total · 41/month|
|Shared By:||Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
With a 70-meter cord you can lower to the ground from the fixed anchor, and you could easily do it in one pitch, but I recommend 4th-classing it up to a ledge with a tree and belaying there. 5.0, 40'.
Climb up past a large block just above the belay, and then continue up corners (the path is obvious once you embark). Eventually you will step left and do a 5.10 move to get established below the big roof. Fingertip traverse right (sew the horizontal up with 0 TCU's and other small gear) and pull the roof at a thin crack. This is the crux and can be spooky as it is a bit right from your gear. I've heard that a red ballnut will slot in the crack in the roof, and small wires could be placed as well, but it's very pumpy here. Pull the roof on some crimps, and continue up sustained 5.10 climbing (and better gear) to the anchor.