Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: FA: Dick Williams & Art Gran - 1964FFA: John Stannard & Ajax Green - 1973
Page Views: 5,721 total · 37/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

29 Opinions

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This is a great route just left of The Yellow Wall. I think it serves as a good stepping stone to Carbs and Caffeine (though few agree with me). Carbs and Caffeine is in turn a good stepping stone to The Yellow Wall.

With a 70-meter cord you can lower to the ground from the fixed anchor, and you could easily do it in one pitch, but I recommend 4th-classing it up to a ledge with a tree and belaying there. 5.0, 40'.

Climb up past a large block just above the belay, and then continue up corners (the path is obvious once you embark). Eventually you will step left and do a 5.10 move to get established below the big roof. Fingertip traverse right (sew the horizontal up with 0 TCU's and other small gear) and pull the roof at a thin crack. This is the crux and can be spooky as it is a bit right from your gear. I've heard that a red ballnut will slot in the crack in the roof, and small wires could be placed as well, but it's very pumpy here. Pull the roof on some crimps, and continue up sustained 5.10 climbing (and better gear) to the bolted anchor.


Standard Rack.


By bolted anchor do you mean 3 rusty pins, and some fixed wires? Or was I off route?

I thought this climb was pretty tough (tougher than yellow wall), probably due to the sustained nature of the climbing and poor rests... not to mention the gear being somewhat small and difficult to place... not to mention that i am weak... Sep 18, 2006
  5.11c/d PG13
bheller   SL UT
  5.11c/d PG13
This route does have a belay anchor of wires/pins in the orange open book up high, above the second crux. If you have a 70m rope, and you are not topping out, then climb and lower from and to the ground. I too feel this climb is tough, harder than Carbs and Caffeine by a few letter grades. I didn't think it was at all sustained, good and easy down low and two back to back difficult and bouldery cruxes. Crux one pulls the roof with the seam and is powerful and commiting- V3, and crux 2 comes after a marginal shake, and is nails hard if your fingers are too big for locks in blue metolius sizes. Again V3 without the key finger lock. For me, 11c/d. Oct 2, 2010
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I concur with the comments above. I don't really understand how grades are assigned at this crag, but with good beta, this is harder than Carbs & Caffeine, and easier than Yellow Wall, so I guess that makes it "11b". Oct 19, 2010
Evan Stevens
  5.11b/c PG13
Evan Stevens  
  5.11b/c PG13
I agree with the last comments...Mid 5.11 for sure, restful jugs enroute. I climbed from the ground and lowered and TR'd it with a 60m rope with a few meters of extra rope. Once you pull the last lip there is no 'sustained' 5.10 climbing to the anchor, once your feet are over you are just about done. Oct 15, 2011
I found this to be less scary but harder than Yellow Wall. We climbed with a 70m cord that had a few feet cut off and the belayer had to come out of his device for me to untie after lower; I do not see how a 60m could possibly reach.

Well named, you feel like you are in No Man's Land as you work for rest between multiple tiers of roofs. Beautiful climb! Oct 29, 2011
Grade seemed fair to me at 11a/b. Slightly more sustained than yellow wall, however single moves not as hard and way less airy. Then again nothing is really sustained in the gunks. Aug 24, 2012
This climb is pretty awesome, the 5.10 crux is not a place you'd want to fall though. However, the two main cruxes are well protected with a bent fixed nut protecting the upper crux (which is pumpy but not as tough as the true crux). Way more climby than the yellow wall (potentially better?). Jun 8, 2015
New Haven, CT
GabeO   New Haven, CT
A 60 meter rope will definitely not reach the ground if the belayer is also on the ground. However if the belayer is on the ledge with the tree 30 feet up, you can definitely lower the climber to the ground (with a meter or two to spare) with a 60. Oct 12, 2015
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
I completely disagree that No Man's Land is easier than Carbs and Caffeine... Apr 7, 2017
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
A No. 3 camalot is helpful for protecting the first 5.11b crux (leaves you with a cleaner fall than plugging micro-cams in the horizontal). After pulling the first crux and placing a perfect 0.75, it's possible to get a restful stance a place a solid 000 C3 and small nut before the pulling the second overlap (5.11c crux) just before the anchor of fixed pins and nuts. Using a 70M and with my belayer on the ground, I lowered off from the fixed anchor. I would recommend keeping your belayer on the ground rather than both of you free soloing up to the ledge and belaying from there (the tree is gone) - it's harder than 4th class, 5.8ish

This route is significantly more difficult and committing than Carbs, in my opinion Nov 26, 2017