Avg: 3 from 231 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Hans Kraus, Ken Prestrud, 1956. FFA: Jim McCarthy, 1960|
|Page Views:||10,418 total · 55/month|
|Shared By:||John Peterson on Mar 15, 2006|
|Admins:||RJ B, Morgan Patterson|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
Start at the right side of the Yellow Wall face. A lieback crack leading up the yellow rock starts the route.
P1: Climb the crack, traverse right, go up a steep (and not completely well protected) wall to a short rightward traverse and the belay. A stellar pitch. Definitely not "G" but not too bad if you just go for it. 5.8, 110'.
It's also possible to belay at a bolt anchor after 60' and rappel from there if you don't want to do the entire route.
For a second pitch, you have three options:
P2: Climb easier rock to the top. 5.5, 70'.
In his 2004 guidebook Dick Williams recommends pitch three of Lisa, described here, as a good way to finish Airy Aria from the GT Ledge:
From the obvious rap tree atop Airy Aria, walk climber's right 20', until you emerge from the large overhang that's just five to six feet off the ground. You will see a clean, right facing corner (crux) capped with an overhang. When you get to the top, escape left on great holds, then climb straight up to the top of the cliff. Williams rates this a 5.6+, and I think that's fair. The initial corner seems almost featureless at first but it is all there and there is just enough gear, too. It's a really nice little pitch if you are in the vicinity. Once you finish, it is a quick walk back down climber's left to the GT ledge and the Airy Aria rap tree (which requires two ropes to reach the ground).
Or, the last pitch of Full Face (pitch 2 only) (5.6) is just another 15-20 feet to the right and it's also a nice diversion.
Descent: Two ropes to rappel, or walk back left to the Ursula or High Exposure rap lines.