Type: Trad
FA: Prestrud, Kraus, Prudden and Warner (FA, 1949) McCarthy (FFA, 1957)
Page Views: 1,923 total · 13/month
Shared By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

A one-move wonder, Oblique Twique is a decent way to warm up or kill time while waiting for nearby routes to be available. The move in question is somewhat reachy.

Start up the open groove 20' right of The Spring (P1), wiggle into and up the chimney, traverse left, and climb up the open book / corner to a ledge. From here, 3 more pitches of 5.4 continue to the cliff top, but it's easy to traverse left to the shared bolt anchor above the Seasons.

Location

About 20 feet right of The Spring (P1), below a short chimney.

Photos

SethG  
I climbed pitch one today, and no, it is not a great climb. I thought two moves were fun: the move to get out of the little chimney, which is probably 5.6, and the move to finish the pitch, which in my opinion was much much harder than 5.8. I guess it follows the frequent Gunks rule that the climb is a 5.8 if it only has one 5.10 move on it. Jun 30, 2010
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
You can slot a bomber small nut in the crack in the open book, just above the one hold on the crux. May 29, 2012
Adam Fernandez
Matawan NJ
  5.8 PG13
Adam Fernandez   Matawan NJ
  5.8 PG13
Green C3 also protects the crux well but there is still some good ankle damage potential if you blow the crux move. All in all a fun route even if it is a one move wonder, its a hell of a one move. Dec 16, 2012
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.8+
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.8+
Agreed with Seth G.. the crux move is undoubtedly harder than 5.8.. harder than Absurdland, Son of Easy O, Broken Sling, etc... Mar 28, 2014
Jon Booth
  5.9-
Jon Booth  
  5.9-
Agree with Andy. I used a #2 brass nut to protect the crux. It held. Oct 23, 2014