Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Howie Davis, Pat Crowther, 1968
Page Views: 1,288 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on May 5, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappelling Details

Description

1. Climb Blistered Toe until you are about 25 feet up, then traverse straight right 40 feet or so and belay. You should be immediately above a small tree. 5.5

2. Climb straight up the face (crux 1), following thin cracks. Eventually you will reach an old pin; at that point diagonal right to a small ledge. You will be looking a white face with a thin seam. Climb this face (crux 2) then go straight up to a large ledge. 5.8, 120 feet.

3. Move to the left side of an overhang, then go to the next overhang. From the top of a block, move past the roof, then trend up and right to a large pine. 5.8, 70 feet.

HBs (RPs might work) for the seam at the second crux. There were no other protection possibilities that I saw and if the nut pulled, the fall would be bad. Not too hard for 5.8

The line is indistinct, but the second pitch has some pretty darn nice face climbing. The third pitch is unmemorable, and there is a large rap tree on the left end of the big ledge that marks the end of the second pitch. From that tree you can reach the bolts on Blistered Toe with one rope.

Location

Follow the trail up from the right side of the Boxcar Boulder. Go right around the boulder pile and you will see the crack of Blistered Toe; it starts about 20-25 feet up. Either start on some creaky flakes about 15 left of the crack or do the direct start (5.9+) up the short, right-facing corner.

Protection

Standard 'Gunks rack, and small (#2 or #3) HB nuts.

Photos

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