Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Howie Davis, Pat Crowther, 1968
Page Views: 1,198 total · 11/month
Shared By: Dana Bartlett on May 5, 2010
Admins: JSH

You & This Route

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1. Climb Blistered Toe until you are about 25 feet up, then traverse straight right 40 feet or so and belay. You should be immediately above a small tree. 5.5

2. Climb straight up the face (crux 1), following thin cracks. Eventually you will reach an old pin; at that point diagonal right to a small ledge. You will be looking a white face with a thin seam. Climb this face (crux 2) then go straight up to a large ledge. 5.8, 120 feet.

3. Move to the left side of an overhang, then go to the next overhang. From the top of a block, move past the roof, then trend up and right to a large pine. 5.8, 70 feet.

HBs (RPs might work) for the seam at the second crux. There were no other protection possibilities that I saw and if the nut pulled, the fall would be bad. Not too hard for 5.8

The line is indistinct, but the second pitch has some pretty darn nice face climbing. The third pitch is unmemorable, and there is a large rap tree on the left end of the big ledge that marks the end of the second pitch. From that tree you can reach the bolts on Blistered Toe with one rope.


Follow the trail up from the right side of the Boxcar Boulder. Go right around the boulder pile and you will see the crack of Blistered Toe; it starts about 20-25 feet up. Either start on some creaky flakes about 15 left of the crack or do the direct start (5.9+) up the short, right-facing corner.


Standard 'Gunks rack, and small (#2 or #3) HB nuts.


- No Photos -
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.8 PG13
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.8 PG13
If you're trying to get on the 3-star linkup in the book that uses P2 of Torture Garden I have some beta that I think is correct.

Climb up Blistered Toe until it's somewhat obvious to traverse right across a face at 5.6 or so. After about 40ft of traversing right and slightly upward you'll see two pins pretty close to each other. There's a big ledge just right of that. Belay here. Took just over 100ft of rope to the belay.

P2 of Torture Garden goes up a very thin crack just left of the ledge. It was possible to protect with a small WC offset nut. The piece was very good, albeit small. Once you're on top that block head pretty much straight up with a bit of traversing to keep it as easy as possible. Lots of lichen on this part of the climb - it doesn't get done much I guess. The book called it 5.5 I think? Felt a bit harder than that to me. Perhaps I couldn't find some holds. You don't really want to fall here either as the gear isn't plentiful.

The crux move was pretty fun, but that might be the only highlight of the pitch. It's a bit of an adventure. Certainly not worth of the 3-star rating in my opinion given the current (dirty) condition. Aug 21, 2015