Avg: 3.2 from 29 votes
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft (21 m)|
|FA:||FA: Jim McCarthy, Claude Lavallee, Jim Andress, 1958. FFA: Gary Brown, John Stannard, 1968|
|Page Views:||4,983 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Denis O'Connor on Apr 12, 2006|
The Mohonk Preserve, GCC, Access Fund, and Petzl have worked to install bolted anchors that eliminate the need to rappel from healthy trees with slings and rings. The primary reason for this action has been to reduce impact on the trees. By monitoring the trees we have direct evidence that this has worked.
Do NOT rappel from trees without in situ anchors. Wrapping ropes around trees is banned by the Mohonk Preserve, and damages the tree even if done only once. The Mohonk Preserve is private land and climbing access is a privilege that can be revoked. It is incumbent upon us as climbers to speak up when we witness environmentally unsound practices – so DO speak up and spread the word.
Currently there are enough rappel stations and walk-off options that a VERY short walk will lead to a bolted station, healthy tree with slings, or down-climb descent. The Gunks Apps, MP, and newer print guidebook each have detailed information that provide Leave No Trace descents.
If you feel there is a situation where there is no good LNT descent, you can contact the GCC or the Climbing Ranger of the Mohonk Preserve directly.
But don't let all the bad press dissuade you. Ventre de Boeuf has a lot going for it -- it's unique at the Gunks, it's got a lot of varied climbing packed into a single pitch, a very unusual and thoughtful (and physical!) crux, and there's never a line. (And I mean never.)
Not only that, it has names like McCarthy and Stannard associated with it. If it was good enough for them ...
Start: Around the corner from Double Crack (down and to the left) you will see an off-width crack, which widens into a cave about 40'-50' up. The start is a few feet to the right of that crack. (If you want a direct start at 10d, climb the offwidth crack. If you don't, there is no off-width technique required on the rest of the route.)
Face climb up about 20' to a small overhang, and then make a somewhat committing traverse up and left into the wide crack. A large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) is helpful when you reach the crack. By this point you will have experienced the route's one drawback: a green dust coating the lower half of the route. As long it hasn't rained recently, it's not too bad.
Continue up the crack, past some protruding flakes into an alcove. You can get a no-hands rest here while considering the crux, which requires making your way out to the light about 10', and then up through a narrow V-notch to slings around a tree. You can rappel with one rope from there.