Mountain Project Logo

Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons

48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Man's Land T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prick, The T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Scary Area T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Tiers of Fear T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ventre de Boeuf T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wrath of the Lamb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A5 R
Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy, Claude Lavallee, Jim Andress, 1958. FFA: Gary Brown, John Stannard, 1968
Page Views: 4,066 total · 27/month
Shared By: Denis O'Connor on Apr 12, 2006
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


23 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: 2018 Peregrine closure: Wisecrack to Scary Area Details
Access Issue: Seasonal Route Closure Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This route is not particularly well-liked among my friends. After climbing it at my suggestion, one of them said he would rather go bouldering than be subjected to it again. Strong words! And he is not alone— - you can find similar comments posted on message boards by other nattering nabobs of negativity.

But don’'t let all the bad press dissuade you. Ventre de Boeuf has a lot going for it— -- it’'s unique at the Gunks, it's got a lot of varied climbing packed into a single pitch, a very unusual and thoughtful (and physical!) crux, and there’'s never a line. (And I mean never.)

Not only that, it has names like McCarthy and Stannard associated with it. If it was good enough for them… ...

Start: Around the corner from Double Crack (down and to the left) you will see an off-width crack, which widens into a cave about 40'-50' up. The start is a few feet to the right of that crack. (If you want a direct start at 10d, climb the offwidth crack. If you don’'t, there is no off-width technique required on the rest of the route.)

Face climb up about 20' to a small overhang, and then make a somewhat committing traverse up and left into the wide crack. A large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) is helpful when you reach the crack. By this point you will have experienced the route'’s one drawback: a green dust coating the lower half of the route. As long it hasn'’t rained recently, it’'s not too bad.

Continue up the crack, past some protruding flakes into an alcove. You can get a no-hands rest here while considering the crux, which requires making your way out to the light about 10', and then up through a narrow V-notch to slings around a tree. You can rappel with one rope from there.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack; a #3 and a #3.5 or #4 Camalot helpful.
ericcr
 
ericcr  
 
awesome route. fun, aesthetic, energetic climbing. Apr 18, 2012

More About Ventre de Boeuf

Printer-Friendly