Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Jim McCarthy and John Wharton, 1958
Page Views: 3,029 total · 21/month
Shared By: JSH on Sep 2, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Access Issue: Tree Preservation and Rappeling Details

Description

Blistered Toe is a fun, steeper-than-it-looks pitch of climbing with two starts. To keep the grade at 5.8, start at obvious (but somewhat suspect) flakes about 10 feet left of the crack, climb up 10-15 feet, and traverse right towards the crack. Climbing the crack directly from the ground ups the ante to 5.9+. Climb the crack above, with some jamming and stemming, to a large ledge, and traverse left to a bolted anchor in a right-facing corner.

P2 is loose and possibly inobviously wet - not recommended! Diagonal up right via 5.4 face climbing, to the path of least resistance up to a large overhang (5.6, loose); traverse left here, then pull past the overhang to easier rock. P3 climbs easier rock to the top.

Location

By a tree, below an obvious crack about 100 feet right of the Seasons (e.g The Spring (P1)).

There are two bolts at the left end of the large ledge atop P1, and slings on a tree at the GT / clifftop.

Protection

Standard rack, up to a #3 Camalot.

Photos

Brian
North Kingstown, RI
Brian   North Kingstown, RI
The direct start is a fun bouldering move with little fingers. There really is no sense in putting in pro until you make the move and get the good hand to the left. I thought it was pretty hard but what Gunks 5.9+ isn't? Jul 9, 2009
SethG  
I led the first two pitches of this route (regular start) two days ago. Williams rates the first pitch at 5.7, and I'm not sure any move is harder than that, but this sucker is sustained and steep! I thought it just kept coming at you, and I was pumped after this 70 foot pitch. I heard later that Swain calls it a 5.8, which made me feel a bit better about it. I saw no sign of wetness on P2, but there is a big collection of rock that looks perilously loose in the middle of the open book on that pitch. I found the loose stuff easy to avoid, however, and I thought the pitch was nice enough for the grade. Since there is a bolted anchor just to the left of where the first pitch ends, I think most people will just rap after one pitch. May 31, 2010
JSH

  5.8
JSH    
  5.8
I followed a partner who's a lot taller than me recently - there are several moves that taller folks can make at 5.7, but for shorter folks who have to move up on less-ideal feet - combined with the steep - it's definitely a notch harder. Jun 1, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
Did the 5.7 start. Found the climb to be well protected. A couple of longish reaches (to jugs) for this shorty (I'm 5'2"). Fun climb. Nov 8, 2014
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
We attempted the 3 star Blistered Toe/Torture Garden/Yellow Crack link-up described in the Grey Dick. I missed the turn and ended up doing B.T. all the way to the GT in one pitch. A fun long climb with interesting routefinding that avoided the 5.8 PG-R T.G. pitch. We walked right on the GT 100 ft. through copious vulture poop to P3 of Yellow Crack. Very cool start on clean, interesting rock, but the second half of the pitch was a bit dirty with a turf mantle finish. A fine adventure!

We rapped off a tree station (right at the top) a full 60m (two ropes) to a large pine tree rapp station. PLAN YOUR RAPPEL CAREFULLY! You don't want to get stuck or worse on this 5.12 terrain! Oct 22, 2015
Systematic  
 
This is a fun line. I figured the direct start would flow more naturally so I did that. It doesn't. It feels like an independent (fun) boulder problem (V3) going into a moderate route. Oct 31, 2016