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Routes in j. The Yellow Wall and The Seasons

48 T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
49 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Airy Aria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blistered Toe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bold-Ville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Broken Hammer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Carbs and Caffeine T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dissonance T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Double Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fall, The T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Fillipina T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Face (pitch 2 only) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
High Jinx T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ivan and the Saum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lady's Lament-Boldville T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lisa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lito and the Swan T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Los Tres Cabrones T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost in Yellow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Manly, Yes, But I Like It Too T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
No Man's Land T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nose, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Oblique Twique T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Prick, The T,TR 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
Scary Area T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Shit Creek T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring (P1), The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sting, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Summer, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Tiers of Fear T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Torture Garden T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tweak or Freak T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Uphill all the Way AKA The Man Who Fell to Earth T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vader T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ventre de Boeuf T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wasp Stop T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Wrath of the Lamb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A5 R
Yellow Wall, The T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Dennis Mehmet, Bill Goldner, 1965 FFA Hugh Herr, 1981
Page Views: 2,645 total, 22/month
Shared By: Ron Olsen on Dec 10, 2007
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


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Description

Devious climbing with hard-to-place gear on a right-leaning arch. A good route with good gear...if you can hang in to place it.

Climb the corner just right of Ventre de Boeuf: trend right to the arch, and climb the arch to a small overhang (crux) to a slab. Reach the anchor and rap.

A note from Ivan Rezucha: I did what I thought was the FA on aid in the mid '70s. Dick Williams says it was done earlier by Dennis Mehmet & co., but I'm a little skeptical, as there were no pin scars. But perhaps in the hard Gunks rock, one aid ascent wouldn't leave any scars.

My "FA" was done as a self-belay, on all nuts, with hooks. At one point I did 3 hook moves in a row, with 2 hooks, by hanging on some small free holds as I moved a hook up. That was pretty exciting. I was either self-belaying with prussiks, or maybe I had moved up by then to jumars.

My name for the climb, "The Man Who Fell to Earth", came from this story: Jeff Pofit attempted (what we thought was) the second ascent. He didn't know that I had used hooks. He ripped his gear from the crux aid section, where the arch jogs right, and zippered a bunch of other gear due to the sideways pull caused by arching. He landed on his head at a soft spot between some rocks. I think he was carried away, but he would have been able to walk away.

The original route went right at the top of the arch to a platform on the arete, and then angled left and up on some nice free climbing at about 5.8. My understanding is that Hugh Herr & co. free-climbed the final traverse right to the arete, but that most people end the free climbing by exiting left near the top of the arch.

Location

Start just right of Ventre de Boeuf.

Protection

Small to medium gear with double rp's.

Photos

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Yotsuba
 
Yotsuba  
 
There was a rusted RP at the crux that popped out after I touched it - protectable with a #0 mastercam though.

Upper edges felt kind of greasy, or I was just sweating a lot... Also double-check that your belayer gives you a soft catch if you blow it just before the anchors, it's a decent swing into the wall otherwise. Apr 4, 2017
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
"The Man Who Fell To Earth" is a classic sci-fi movie staring the Chameleon of Rock, David Bowie. My favorite line from the movie:

"you're not at all like my father" Dec 11, 2007