Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Roy Kligfield & Dave Ingalls FFA: John Bragg & Mark Robinson - 1979
Page Views: 2,933 total · 25/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 27, 2009
Admins: JSH

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Scary Area involves wild climbing out huge roofs, complicated gear, and difficult route-finding. It is quite a step up from its neighbors, The Yellow Wall and Carbs and Caffeine.

P1: Begin from the stacked blocks ledge where The Yellow Wall starts. Scary Area face climbs up to an obvious bolt (a newer bolt right next to an old relic). There is a horizontal that accepts dubious gear on the way to the bolt, but stick-clipping might be a better idea to avoid an ankle-breaking landing. The climbing up the bolt is 5.11, and beyond is committing 5.11+. Don't worry, there is gear up there! Above the first jug on the climb is a glue-in bolt that presently (2009) has some static line connecting it to some fixed hexes in a horizontal above. Climb past this and wander up and slightly left to more gear placements. Continue up to an obvious belay stance at a huge right-facing flake/corner. Currently (2009) there is a fixed belay here of a pin, two wires, and a bunch of green rope. This pitch in and of itself makes a great 11+ lead.

P2: This is the business. From the belay, step down and right to a stance on a ledge, then work straight right and back up at a sketchy left-facing flake (R) to a horizontal with a pin. This pin is visible from the belay, and the horizontal takes good gear. From here climb up and slightly left heading towards the monster roofs, more horizontals, and gear placements. Back cleaning gear, or the use of double ropes would be helpful. Once under the big roofs, hand traverse straight right to a cool, exposed stance. Arrange some gear here, and then bust out the roof at a weakness (crucial red Alien placements here and a small wire at the lip) just left of the Carbs and Caffeine roof. This seemed very much 5.12. Once over the lip, step around the corner to the right and belay off 5 or 6 rusty fixed wires.

Protection

Double set to #2 Camalot.

Photos

There are currently two bolts (one bolt, one ring) on the first pitch. I don't quite undersand the logic for the second bolt as there is bomber gear immediately below and above it. On the other hand the first bolt is way to high to make this safe, even by gunks standards. In my opinion the second bolt should be transferred to below the first one. The pitch would be steller, still require guts and trad gear. Aug 16, 2015
Did the first pitch this weekend. Gear before the first bolt is good (purple X4 in the horizontal and a triple clove hitch on the horn. The clove held a lead fall for me from right below the bolt), once you do the first sequence and get gear you're well protected to the bolt. A crash pad is nice for the first few moves though, they're hard. The most dangerous part I think is after the bolt, you have a pretty good run on 5.10 climbing until the next gear and a fall may or may not result in you decking and/or penduluming into the boulders to the left of the start from 40ft up.

The 2nd eye bolt is useless on lead, my guess is it's there for rapping off the top of the 2nd pitch. Oct 26, 2015
GabrielKoybz
Brooklyn
  5.12c R
GabrielKoybz   Brooklyn
  5.12c R
The midway anchor was beefed up (& new cord) fall 2016. Still a bit messy, but safe for toproping. If you're gonna lead P1, do the full pitch!

Mostly 5.11 to a boulder problem at the top with lots of air below .

Piton described in the route description is no longer there - look for a .75-sized horizontal in good rock instead. Jan 5, 2017
Jon Po
Mahwah, NJ
  5.12c R
Jon Po   Mahwah, NJ
  5.12c R
A contender for the most spectacular route in the Gunks in my opinion :) The Buddha in the Sky!! Rock and roll!!!! Oct 15, 2018